floor board

I have decided to put engineered wood flooring, however the floorboards are creaking horribly. Upon testing the floorboards and taking few out, I realised they need replacement, the wood is too dry, lifts at joist despite screws and creaks in tongue and groove sections as well. So, I am about...

We recently had our entire 1 bed flat re-floored with engineered wood. Part of the quote included the installation of skirting boards, with the caveat that this would not include decorating & finishing. However, we are appalled with the final results. We have been doing most of the reno work...

I need to add a board to cover this hole in the 1st floor floor. The rest of the floor is 18mm tongue and groove, and there are joist on the edge of the hole. I need to fit a board to cover the hole and need to install battens? (not sure the name) to the walls to screw the new board to. I'd...

This forum has been really helpful in the run-up to undertaking a partial renovation of a Victorian terraced house. I’m intending to sand and finish the pine floorboards in the dining room area, however there appears to be a patch of concrete or similar material in the corner of the room, as...

I have been working to renovate my first home and had to replace an area of joists and floorboards on the ground floor with OSB3 18mm sheets Since having the kitchen installed I have noticed the floor moves a bit under foot even when screwed down which is worst under the joints between the...

I'd like to insulate my (concrete) garage floor. It's single skinned so I will seal the concrete (1st coat sealant, 2nd coat sealant + SBR). I will then use tanking slurry on the walls (1st coat slurry + SBR, 2nd coat just slurry). I expect a little slurry left over so I will use that to re-coat...

Hi, just looking for some advice on something. I’m getting a sunroom/extension built at the back of my house and noticed the builders are using 120 mm thick Kingspan floor insulation boards (TP10/TF70/TW55) whilst the Architect’s Outline Specification states that it should be 150 mm thick...

Happy new year to those that have a good one. I'm unable to remove multiple screws embedded deep within multiple floorboards into their joist. I suspect the installers used a bit too much pressure with the power tools and partially rounded the heads - as per the image, these are Tongue-Tite...

Hi I plan to install laminate flooring on the first floor of my house. I have removed all carpets and previous underlay and cleaned the floorboards beneath. Due to it being the first floor I’d like a good noise reducing underlay. I am currently torn between 3 options: - Vitrex premier 5mm (screw...

Hi there, We are renovating out Victorian terrace house and we have decided to lay a engineered floor downstairs.At the moment there is floating laminated flooring installed on which looks like 3mm insulation without DPM on the top of original floor boards. My plan is to remove floor boards...

I have a Kahrs Woodloc 5s engineered wood floor, it's very good except in one location at the end, where it is a bit bouncy. I think the concrete base was not completely flat here and has a dip. I was thinking of cutting out a board, building up the subfloor, and replacing with a new...

I need to run central heating pipe horizontally under the floorboards of an upper floor. I need to go through only one 75mm wide beam, but I'm wary of boring or notching it, also because that would be quite close to the wall bearing the beam. So I thought of running an 8mm or 10mm pipe...

Hello Forum members I hope you are able to help. I have a house built in 1930's and have old floorboards squeaking which I need to replace before new carpets are fitted. The approx size of the current floor boards are 5" (130mm) wide and 18-20mm in depth. I have been looking all around but...

We recently purchased a three bed semi. The floorboards in the hallway are in terrible condition - the previous owners lifted the carpet 20 odd years ago and haven’t looked after them properly. the survey said the hallway has suffered historic woodworm (see pics). Do you think any can be...

Hi, I have lifted the 1930's pine floorboards from my house. I plan to insulate underneath them and then re-lay and sand. Should I: 1. Glue and nail them down 2. Just nail them down 3. Screw and glue 4. Just screw Worried about squeeky floor boards. Any advice would be great. Thanks.

Chaps, A quickie that I'd rather was specific'y... I'm told that 3mm tolerance is ok for 14mm thick engineered oak flooring. Seems a bit 'bouncy' in places underfoot after my test lay of first couple rows. (Dip check off straight edge shows no more than 3mm) Should I be concerned or push on...

As per attached photos. I have to close out my first floor and got some old flooring plank missing. As the 140x18mm are very difficult to find, can I used chipboard instead and cut to size. Is the chipboard strong enough where I have 20mm base support on the half joist? Thanks

I`m doing a bit or renovation and I have 100mm of concrete sitting directly on soil. Removing it to poor a proper concrete and then 200mm insulation would have a massive cost impact and this is not feasible. I was thinking to poor 30mm or screed to level up all ground floor and then 18mm floor...

I've been diagnosing some heating problems and found that we had 5 radiators coming off a 15mm feed, part of which was setup in a series. No wonder the last two didn't get hot. We will soon be dot and dabbing over a wall where some of these pipes come down, and I have decided to cut the series...

As part of the renovations of the spare room, I've decided to take up the old pine floor boards and replace with new. We have a solid oak 18mm thick floor to lay which I was going to mechanically attach using hidden screws. I toyed with the idea of directly fixing these to the joists but think...