3 Gang 1 Way Switch - Please Help

[wojna]

Hi everyone.

I'm trying to make a 3 gang switch from 1 gang switch.

1 stays as it is to operate a lights in the kitchen and another two for plinth and under cupboard lights. The two new additional circuits will end with a socket to which I want to plug in a LED lights - that's the ideas. Unfortunately I do get a L-E reverse on them I don't know how to fix it. I tried everything. I'm not sure if that's even possible to do now. Please help.

I've attached to pictures. If you need me to explain that further I'll do my best to do so.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Your number 1 problem is that you don’t understand the wiring. Your light switch does not have a neutral. Without a neutral the additional circuits cannot work.

The existing light cable (the red and black) are live and switched live. The black is. Not a neutral!
The existing light is loop in at the light, that is where it gets its neutral from. You’ll need the replace the existing 2-core and earth cable that runs to the light fitting with a 3-core and earth cable. The third core will take a neutral from the light fitting to the switch and you are then sorted.

Sorry, more wall chasing, floorboard lifting etc to be done.

PS. The first diagram below shows how your lights are probably wired
https://www.diynot.com/wiki/Electrics:Lighting-Circuit-layouts

 

[sparkwright]

If there is a socket circuit already near where you intended to plug the new lights into, you may be able to create a way of using those two new cables as 'switch wires'.

If you can get a feed from a nearby socket, near the cupboards, there may be a way of fusing down via a 5 amp FCU, to control two new seperate sockets - each of which could be controlled by the new switch wires.

It would mean the 3 gang switch would have two seperate circuits within it, but that's ok.

It might save more chasing and getting above the ceiling.

 

[sparkwright]

Alternatively, you may be able to get a neutral from the consumer unit or another point in the house THAT IS ON THE SAME LIGHTING CIRCUIT, if access is easy.

 

[wojna]

Thank you Sparkwright for a quick replay. Lucky I have a socket I could use. I will try that.

 

[sparkwright]

Do you know how to do it?

Tell us how you would do it before you start.

 

[chivers67]

Although that would be ok it wouldn't be obvious to anyone doing maintenance the Lighting MCBs do not isolate those two switches if Fed from a Socket in which case a note somewhere near the Consumer unit would be helpful?

 

[sparkwright]

No different to a standard hall and landing 2 gang switch really - years ago people put a piece of paper (yes paper) to instruct the electrician to operate more than one fuse or circuit breaker.

Don't like bits of paper in switches though.

 

[wojna]

Do you know how to do it?

Tell us how you would do it before you start.

I'm not sure but I try to get feed from the socket and break it with the cable that goes to the new 3 gang switch. Is that OK?

 

[sparkwright]

I'm not sure but I try to get feed from the socket and break it with the cable that goes to the new 3 gang switch. Is that OK?

Bit more to it than that, but you have the idea I think.

 

[wojna]

Bit more to it than that, but you have the idea I think.

I will come back here with the results as the main thing for me is safety. Thank you for your help so far.

 

[sparkwright]

Before we do anything, is the socket permanently live.

Or is controlled from, for example a switch above the worktop?

Some kitchen sockets are intended for appliances, and only work when the control switch above the worktop is turned on.

 

[sparkwright]

Secondly, are the plugs on the lights ordinary plugs, or are they the big bulky transformer/driver type things?

 

[wojna]

Secondly, are the plugs on the lights ordinary plugs, or are they the big bulky transformer/driver type things?

To be honest I don't have them yet but the one I was looking at had normal plug and then transformer. Does it make any difference?

 

[sparkwright]

To be honest I don't have them yet but the one I was looking at had normal plug and then transformer. Does it make any difference?

Yes.

If just a normal plug, you can interrupt the flex between the plug and the transformer with a junction box and one of your new switch cables.

You only switch the live wire of the the flex.

On your new switch cable, brown will be the permanent live.
The blue gets sleeved with some brown sleeving, as this will be the switched live.

 

[sparkwright]

Before we do anything, is the socket permanently live.

Or is controlled from, for example a switch above the worktop?

Some kitchen sockets are intended for appliances, and only work when the control switch above the worktop is turned on.

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