Hi, I have a direct wired cooker on a 40A type B MCD. Is it ok to switch out the direct wire for a 32A 3-pin industrial socket (so the cooker could be unplugged and something else plugged in from time to time in a domestic installation?
32A Industrial socket for cooker?
- Thread starter DIYbot2
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No.
What does 'switch out the direct wire' mean?
What does 'switch out the direct wire' mean?
@EFLImpudence Seems simple enough to understand to me. He has a direct connection (cooker plate or JB) and wants to swap for a blue 32A plug and socket.
@DIYbot2 no idea on the legality, although I believe in domestic settings you have to use an interlocked or shuttered socket, but have you seen how big these things are and do you have the space in an adjacent unit? I'd be surprised if they fitted behind the cooker.
What kit is it? Hot tub? Welder?
@DIYbot2 no idea on the legality, although I believe in domestic settings you have to use an interlocked or shuttered socket, but have you seen how big these things are and do you have the space in an adjacent unit? I'd be surprised if they fitted behind the cooker.
What kit is it? Hot tub? Welder?
It's really a matter of 'compliance with BS7671' rather than "legality", since compliance with BS7671 is not mandatory, and nor are there any laws which would demand what you suggest.
For what it's worth, in terms of BS7671, I'm not sure that even 'interlocked' sockets are, strictly speaking, acceptable in a dome sting setting - I think it says only 'shuttered'.
Kind Regards, John
There is some room for argument on this one. The regulations forbid the use of un-shuttered sockets on domestic installations, however many people, myself included, believe that a switched interlocked industrial socket provides a safety function at least equivalent to the shutters on a standard domestic socket.
I am also one of those many people who believe that, too - but nothing in BS7671 says anything about sockets which provide "a safety function at least equivalent to the shutters on a standard domestic socket".
However, as I said, there is nothing 'mandatory' about BS7671, nor any other relevant regulations or laws - so, unless one is constrained to follow the every word of BS7671 (e..g. because of CPS membership), common sense can prevail.
Kind Regards, John
Well, we don't know what the 'something else' he might want to plug in 'from time to time' might be, but, in terms of the cooker, one more thing that we might need to say (ask) is why he doesn't have his cooker circuit protected by a 32A MCB (which the vast majority of cooker circuits are).
Kind Regards, John
Unorthodox to say the least and not enough information to make a truly informed decision.
Not something I would consider doing for a customer without much more information
Not something I would consider doing for a customer without much more information
Hi, thanks for all the responses and apologies for the slow re-engagement. I want to power a small phase converter to run one of these: https://www.baron-mixer.com/en/p/50003. It should be well within the 40 amps though I’m not sure about the inrush current. I don’t really want to start ripping things apart for a permanent installation. I didn’t install the original circuits, so I’m not sure why the 40 amp MCB.
Switch was a bad word to use. I just meant change.
I haven’t fully investigated, but what I can see is a large grey “flat” standard type domestic installation cable coming out of the wall. There is a red switch for it at a separate point near the wall outlets, but no visible indication of a fuse. The chart by the fuse board (MCB’s and RCD’s) indicate that it’s 6mm2 live and 2.5mm2 cpc. It shares a 30mA RCD with several other circuits.
I haven’t fully investigated, but what I can see is a large grey “flat” standard type domestic installation cable coming out of the wall. There is a red switch for it at a separate point near the wall outlets, but no visible indication of a fuse. The chart by the fuse board (MCB’s and RCD’s) indicate that it’s 6mm2 live and 2.5mm2 cpc. It shares a 30mA RCD with several other circuits.
That's a three phase mixer so won't work unless your house has a three phase (industrial) electrical supply. Even if you did have this, your comment that your cable is twin and earth means you couldn't use the cooker circuit.