accurate depth adjustment of circular saw

[John D v2.0]

Hi all, hope you had a good easter.

I have one of the basic makita 18v circular saws (dss610 I think) and I find the depth adjustment a pain.
I know they're not really for detail work but if I want to do (say) an accurate 12mm deep cut for a joint I have to fiddle about testing on an offcut, and even then if it's slightly out you can't just alter it 1mm, you have to loosen it off and then it moves 10mm all in one go and you're back to square 1.
Are more expensive saws easier to set up accurately? (or should I be using a completely different tool?)

Thanks for reading - all advice appreciated.

 

[blup]

I have that model as well as bosch and in the past dewalt saws, they're all pretty much the same. The only foolproof way is to set it up against the wood being cut with sufficient extra depth for the tooth to cut on the upward stroke. Otherwise trial and error using the depth scale.

Blup

 

[big-all]

i assume thumb turn and groove adjustment ???
if you want a say half lap joint and you want a half lap on 22mm timber then go for half+0.25-0.5mm depth so 11+0.5=11.5mm
you now cut around 50/50% as in 2mm slot 2mm space the you knock the heads off the feathers to give several tiny points or ridges you then glue and as most glues have a 0.5-1mm gap filling capacity when you gently clamp the joint until level and parallel the high points easily give but dont over clamp as you will need to add further very thin material to push back to level

now actually achieving an actual depth for a blade plunge can be achieved by use off material you have and building an actual collection to place under the base and plunge the saw to solid surface as in 11.5mm use cheap ply 12mm round here = 11.5 mm or 6mm =5.5 x2 and cardboard/paper card what ever
adjusting off any machine can be feel and tapping with a slightly loose clamp as in finger on two surfaces that will close and tap with say a light bit off wood and with practice and adjustment you can "feel" small movement as the skin compresses and i am talking perhaps 0.25mm give or take 0.07 it all comes with years off practice you just need to find a what works for you and your sensitivity with tools and sytems that work best for you

 

[robinbanks]

or should I be using a completely different tool?

A router?

 

[nickjb]

Festool are very easy to set and accurate. Obviously pricey too. The scale is much larger and it indexes every mm making it simple to get right and repeat. Then there is a fine adjust for getting it spot on.