Advice on building stud wall in alcove

janieJones123

janieJones123

Joined
26 Nov 2017
Messages
66
Reaction score
0
Country
United Kingdom
Hi all,

I was wondering if someone could help me with blocking off an alcove with a stud wall. We have this odd alcove in our dining room that is currently shelved. However the alcove isn't the height of the room, as the chimney goes off to the left above it. It just kinda looks a bit crap. So we are looking to block it off and have a full wall. We are getting a stove installed in the chimney next to it. I was wondering if someone could give me some tips on wood, hardware and techniques on how to do this please.

HxWxD 1770x880x370mm (height is 1890mm to the floor)

I have very successfully built a pony wall for my kitchen before after receiving great advice on here on exactly what to use and how to do it.

Here's what I'm thinking (might be overkill in places):
  • Timber: standard C16 carcassing timber (or C24) will be sufficient? Something like 3x2?
  • The floor is timber, so fix the sole plate and spacer blocks to floor with something like 10mm coach screws (I have leftovers from the pony wall) at something like 200mm centres through large square washers. See question 4 also.
  • Side and top are both brick, so brown plugs and 5.0 or 6.0 x 100mm screws.
I just have a few questions regarding the finishing of it.

1. Do I need to vent the finished wall at all?
2. The recess is at a party wall of a semi, so it isn't on an outside wall. Should I insulate the recess before attaching the plasterboard? Maybe soundproofing?
3. Do I need to use plywood AND plasterboard on the stud? I'm pretty sure this will be a "no", I only ask as I have quite a bit of plywood going spare from building the pony wall. I think its 12mm.
4. Currently, the bottom shelf is just above the skirting board, and the space beneath is filled with insulation. There is a small door cut. Should I remove this bottom shelf entirely along with the skirting board, and build the stud all the way to the floor, or is it ok to just use the bottom shelf as-is?
5. What size centres should I use for the sides and top timber?
6. Do I need more than one noggin between the vertical supports? The more, the better the structure?

Thought this was a good video:

Apologies for the large post, just want to make sure I get it right.
Thanks!
 

Attachments

  • alcove.JPG
    alcove.JPG
    161.9 KB · Views: 1,097
  • bottomShelf.JPG
    bottomShelf.JPG
    164.2 KB · Views: 389
Last edited:
Me being me would simply stick a pair of doors on it and use it for storage of wood etc for your stove
 
To try and answer your original post:

janieJones123 said:
HxWxD 1770x880x370mm (height is 1890mm to the floor)....
  • Timber: standard C16 carcassing timber (or C24) will be sufficient? Something like 3x2?
  • The floor is timber, so fix the sole plate and spacer blocks to floor with something like 10mm coach screws (I have leftovers from the pony wall) at something like 200mm centres through large square washers. See question 4 also.
  • Side and top are both brick, so brown plugs and 5.0 or 6.0 x 100mm screws
Click to expand...
Firstly, carcasing isn't structurally rated (e.g. C16, C24, etc), so you'd be better off just asking for CLS (which may or may not be rated), which is uniform in size and more than adequate. It comes in 3 x 2in nominal sizing which works out at more or less 70 x 44mm finished size. The corners are rounded off and the surfaces regularised which means less splinters than rough sawn carcassing timber. With a width of 880mm I'd make up a frame to be a snug fit with two outer legs and a single centre leg at 440mm, but I'd stiffen the whole thing up by adding two or four noggins across the frame.

You don't need coach screws, overkill really, not to mention awkward to drill for. Instead position your frame and drill through using a 7mm masonry bit, knock a brown plug into the hole, then knock a 5mm or 6mm screw in so that you punch the plug through the timber and plasterwork and into the masonry. Finally tighten the screws. With CLS I'd suggest 5 x 80 or 5 x 100 screws rather than 6mm ones

janieJones123 said:
1. Do I need to vent the finished wall at all?
2. The recess is at a party wall of a semi, so it isn't on an outside wall. Should I insulate the recess before attaching the plasterboard? Maybe soundproofing?
3. Do I need to use plywood AND plasterboard on the stud? I'm pretty sure this will be a "no", I only ask as I have quite a bit of plywood going spare from building the pony wall. I think its 12mm.
Click to expand...
I doubt there is any need to vent the wall, but mineral wool batting fitted snugly between the studs will reduce noise from next door.and keep heat in. You don't need plywood facing of the frame unless you intend to hang something off that wall in the future, although you should be looking to use 12mm PB to clad the frame IMHO

janieJones123 said:
4. Currently, the bottom shelf is just above the skirting board, and the space beneath is filled with insulation. There is a small door cut. Should I remove this bottom shelf entirely along with the skirting board, and build the stud all the way to the floor, or is it ok to just use the bottom shelf as-is?
5. What size centres should I use for the sides and top timber?
6. Do I need more than one noggin between the vertical supports? The more, the better the structure?
Click to expand...
My own preference would be to remove the bottom and skirting and frame to the floor as it would make a more solid structure. Other details already answered above
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Attachments

  • upload_2020-10-5_15-15-5.jpeg
    upload_2020-10-5_15-15-5.jpeg
    17.2 KB · Views: 228
  • upload_2020-10-5_15-15-6.jpeg
    upload_2020-10-5_15-15-6.jpeg
    17.2 KB · Views: 243
  • upload_2020-10-5_15-15-6.png
    upload_2020-10-5_15-15-6.png
    101.5 KB · Views: 250
Thanks a lot for the advice @JobAndKnock. Really appreciated your advice on my last job, the half stud wall turned out perfectly.

@sircerebus666 @foxhole @Why Not Indeed I understand people thinking its a waste of space, but it really makes the room feel uneven. Were it to go all the way up to the ceiling like the opposite alcove, then things would be different. And the storage idea won't make it past my wife.
 
Pleasure,
and as above the suggestion is you use Stud.
I know this is available at my local Wickes (about £2.50). and B&Q (about £3).

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Stu...VCbrtCh0CqgfpEAQYASABEgIIV_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Only If needed: use some plywood between the stud (and so flat to the plasterboard) if you plan to hang something heavy from the plasterboard (normally TV or toilet paper holder).

Use 12mm plasterboard, not 9mm.

Do not use Not coach screws anywhere.
I would use 70mm or 80mm screws can use them everywhere.

SFK
 
Great, thanks for the advice @SFK . I'm based in Northern Ireland and annoyingly we don't have a Wickes. There have been so many things I've looked for online and Wickes has come up.
I did find some CLS at a local builders merchants here, but they only seem to do it in 4x2 or 5x2
https://www.jpcorry.com/jp-corry-products/cls-canadian-lumber-standard-timber/

I think the most we'll be hanging on it is a large picture. If I did clad the whole thing in 12mm plywood, would it be ok to use 9.5mm plasterboard? I only ask as I have a lot of both left over and nothing else to do with it.

Thanks.
 
Yes (to cladding with left over plywood and 9.5mm plasterboard). 12mm is the norm these days because it is a lot stiffer than thinner board, but plywood patressing behind 9.5mm will be even stiffer
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top