Advice required for filling in a large hole around electrical wiring

J

Jacdav

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Please can some one help! A while back
I had a cooker hood put in by a electrician. This is how my wall was left behind my hob. He said the wall could be tiled over. Since then another electrician has looked at it. (related to a different job.) He said as a blank switch had been attached to the middle part this was not required and took it out. See the part with red tape in pic 1. He advices being filled in with plasterboard. I am going to ask a plasterer to complete the work but just would like reassurance it looks safe. Also concerned how this would be done around the switches in pic 2.
 

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Thanks for the reply. What is a terminal bloc? Is the middle part that is covered in red tape a terminal bloc? Sorry I am completely dull when it comes to electrics
 
Not too sure what you mean by blank switch and all that other stuff about 1st and second picture.

First picture - this wiring would be better connected to some kind of maintenance free junction box and lost in the wall, HOWEVER, this could then be an issue with concealed wiring safe zones.

What is the white cable? This MAY be out of a safe cable zone, so that could be an issue.

Second picture - a familiar sight. The awkward gaps that plasterers don't like repairing. The same awkward gaps which decorators in turn pretend that the socket fronts will cover.

Is this wall a studwall? Or is it dot and dab wall?

Whatever it is, if plasterboard has been used you need to be careful filling this, as it could crack.

If it plasterboard, I would be inclined to fit new, nicely cut, pieces of plasterboard around these boxes - your plasterer will do a good job of this IF HE IS ANY GOOD.
 
There looks to be a lot of cables in that box. And, as has been said, the flex is vulnerable.

I suspect the OP meant blank plate: the first guy put one on, the second took it off and suggested boarding over the box?

Did either of these people leave any paperwork or do any testing?

I would get a qualified spark to look at this, then if the wiring connections are within regulation, change the connectors for a properly rated MF junction box.

Is the flex for the hood? Is it connected to the blocks covered in red tape?

I would notch the bare minimum out of the stud and cover the flex with a steel plate.
 
Yes I believe the flex is for the hood. I assuming that this is connected to the block covered in red tape. This would make sense as to explain it. The 2nd electrician carried out a number of small jobs for me and carried out tests as I have paperwork. I have contacted another electrician and will pass on the advice provided. Thank you all.
 
Screwheads not lined up horizontally :(

Whoever did that is not an electrician. My mother could have done a better job.
 
ban-all-sheds said:
What movement would cause the cable to abrade?
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LOL. More of your nonsense. This has been done before. If you think it's acceptable to install cables like that then there is little point in me wasting my time arguing with you. The electrical contracting industry certainly does not agree that it is satisfactory, however.
 
Risteard said:
LOL. More of your nonsense. This has been done before. If you think it's acceptable to install cables like that then there is little point in me wasting my time arguing with you. The electrical contracting industry certainly does not agree that it is satisfactory, however.
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Which is/are the regulation(s) that require grommets to be used?
 
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