Advice required to fit 2 x new sockets in bedroom

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mjgreen81

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Hi everyone,

I have an upcoming project that I would like some advise on please...

I am going to be redecorating a bedroom which only has one double socket at present. I would like to add an additional two double sockets on different walls. My initial thought was that I would do a nice and easy fused spur to accommodate these sockets. However, I have had a peek at the socket and can see that it has 3 x cables already there, suggesting that it has already had a spur fitted from this socket (I am yet to lift the floorboards to try and trace everything).

With this in mind, I was considering my other options. Mainly breaking into the ring main and spurring (via a connector) instead. Below is a couple of (rough!) drawings of my plan and a possible alternative). Would I be able to get some opinions as to whether I am looking at a suitable option please?

Many thanks

Option 1:

Sockets-Option-1.png


This seems like the most sensible.

Option 2:

Sockets-Option-2.png


This seems like the easiest option as I dont need to fuse the spur as I am only have one double socket on each spur. However, I am not sure if I am allowed to break into the mains twice on the same run between sockets. I haven't read anything to suggest I can't, but I also haven't ready anyone else saying this method is acceptable.

Many thanks
 
Last edited:
Screwfix do a grid socket so a double socket box has in essence two single sockets in a double socket face plate, so you can take two spurs from a ring without having more than 3 cables in one terminal, over 3 cables you can end up with one cable not being fully clamped so should be avoided.

Same grid socket would also allow a socket, a fuse and a switch in same double socket face plate, so you could have a socket and a fused connection unit in one double socket box.
 
ericmark said:
Screwfix do a grid socket so a double socket box has in essence two single sockets in a double socket face plate, so you can take two spurs from a ring without having more than 3 cables in one terminal, over 3 cables you can end up with one cable not being fully clamped so should be avoided.

Same grid socket would also allow a socket, a fuse and a switch in same double socket face plate, so you could have a socket and a fused connection unit in one double socket box.
Click to expand...

Interesting. Thank you.

Do you have a link for this item? I can't seem to find it.
 
if you can lift the floor and get at the cables, you can most likely interrupt and extend the ring with no need for junctions or spurs.
 
mjgreen81 said:
As above, I need access to the adjacent socket to do this right?
Click to expand...
Unlikely - there are 2 ring cables to the existing socket, identify the longer one and relocate it to a new socket, then add one or more sockets between those. No junction boxes, FCUs or spurs required.
Floor will need to be lifted - but that will already have been done to get those cables in there, so it shouldn't be particularly difficult.

Concealed junction boxes should be avoided, even if they are MF ones.
 
depends on length of available cable, and where you want the new sockets.

If you have socket A on the left, and socket B on the right, with a cable running A-B

you want, instead, to have a cable running A to new1, from new1 to new2, and from new2 to B

Sometimes if you cut cable A-B, it has enough length to reach from A to new1
and enough length on the other side of the cut to run from new2 to B
And you just insert a new piece from new1 to new2

This method can be very easy in kitchens where there is a row of sockets and switches set 150mm above the worktop.

If there is not enough length, you will have to run new cable to at least one of the old sockets.

When you look behind the sockets and under the floor, you will see if oval conduit was used (very easy to poke new cable up) or plasterers capping (difficult) or clipped and plastered (needs chasing out).
 
flameport said:
Unlikely - there are 2 ring cables to the existing socket, identify the longer one and relocate it to a new socket, then add one or more sockets between those. No junction boxes, FCUs or spurs required.
Floor will need to be lifted - but that will already have been done to get those cables in there, so it shouldn't be particularly difficult.

Concealed junction boxes should be avoided, even if they are MF ones.
Click to expand...

JohnD said:
depends on length of available cable, and where you want the new sockets.

If you have socket A on the left, and socket B on the right, with a cable running A-B

you want, instead, to have a cable running A to new1, from new1 to new2, and from new2 to B

Sometimes if you cut cable A-B, it has enough length to reach from A to new1
and enough length on the other side of the cut to run from new2 to B
And you just insert a new piece from new1 to new2

This method can be very easy in kitchens where there is a row of sockets and switches set 150mm above the worktop.

If there is not enough length, you will have to run new cable to at least one of the old sockets.

When you look behind the sockets and under the floor, you will see if oval conduit was used (very easy to poke new cable up) or plasterers capping (difficult) or clipped and plastered (needs chasing out).
Click to expand...

Ah, I think I understand what you mean.

Something like this?:

plan3.jpg
 
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