Airing cupboard shelves

stubo88

stubo88

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Hi
I'm building some slatted airing cupboard shelves as a diy project. Total noob skill level.

I've ordered the timber. Tulipwood, 44mm x 44mm for batons. 92mm x 24mm for slats. Shelves will be ~900mm deep, 8 slats per shelf. Width of shelf 820mm. There will be 4 shelves in the cupboard.

What would people recommend for fixing the slats to batons? I was thinking screws but that would be a lot of pilot holes drilled and screwing! I don't own a nail gun either and don't know much about what type I'd need if I wanted to save all that hammering!

Thanks
Stu
 
4 shelves x 8 batons per shelf = 64 screws.

With a cordless drill/screwdriver it won't take long. If you haven't got one then it's worthwhile investing in one. Will save a lot of hard work for other projects.

Set your supports around the walls at the height you want them. Cut your slats to length, (allowing 2 - 3mm gap at each end to allow for wall run out).
Lay your slats flat on a bench/table all close next to each other and with the ends all level, (use a straight edge/batten to push them up against to make sure they are level). With a scrap piece of support, lay it on edge flush with the ends on top of the slats and draw a light pencil line across all the slats.
Do the same at the other end. You can either gauge where the centres of those rectangles are or lightly draw diagonals in to bisect at the centre.
If using 4mm screws drill a 4.5/4.8 clearance hole through each one at both ends. (45mm should be a suitable length).
Not sure, (without working it out), what the gap will be between the slats but get/make up a length of wood of the right thickness to sit across the supports and act as a spacer.
Position and screw down your first slat then place your spacer next to it. Place your next slat into place against the spacer and screw down. Repeat for each slat on each shelf.
It sounds tedious but with one of your favourite CD's playing in the background you will soon have it completed.

One more tip. If the gap between the shelves is not big enough to get your drill/screwdriver between the supports, work from the bottom shelf upwards or you may have to resort to using a screwdriver by hand. ;-)
 
stubo88 said:
What would people recommend for fixing the slats to batons? I was thinking screws but that would be a lot of pilot holes drilled and screwing! I don't own a nail gun either and don't know much about what type I'd need if I wanted to save all that hammering!
Click to expand...

I have pump, cylinder, 3-port and pipes in my airing cupboard, so I made my shelves in sections. Support timber rail at the back and front, then shelves made up as two sections, so they just dropped onto the rails for support. Another method, would be to attach the correctly spaced slats, to a ribbon of material at each end of the slats, so they simply unroll along the rails.

Which ever method is used, idea was to make them quickly and simply removable, when the need arises. Even if there is nothing in the cupboard, it makes them easier to assemble and quick to remove for decorating etc..
 
Thanks Harry, thanks Conny,

So it sounds like screws are the best way forward then. I thought I might have to do 4 screws per slat. But doing 2 as you recommended Conny will save some work!

Do I need to drill pilot holes in both the slats and the supports, or just the slats?
 
My airing cupboard has slatted wooden shelves, resting on wall battens, in grids that are loose enough you can pull them to a trapezoid shape.

This means you can lift them in and out with ease, e.g. to work on the plumbing, and of course they were made on the bench, not working with your arms inside a small cupboard.

p.s.
Pilot holes will taks a little longer, but prevent the wood splitting.

Splits will annoy you long after you have forgotten the minutes saved

Airing cupboard shelves need to be very smooth to prevent snagging the clothes.
 
stubo88 said:
Thanks Harry, thanks Conny,

So it sounds like screws are the best way forward then. I thought I might have to do 4 screws per slat. But doing 2 as you recommended Conny will save some work!

Do I need to drill pilot holes in both the slats and the supports, or just the slats?
Click to expand...
Just drill clearance holes in the slats. If using 4mm screws drill 4.5/4.8 clearance holes. Makes life so much easier.
Some people don't bother and try to screw straight into both pieces of timber. This can cause splitting in the first piece, especially if it's near the end of the wood, and can also cause the wood to 'jack off' from the piece being screwed in to.
 
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