Angle grinder extensions

Tigercubrider

Tigercubrider

Joined
22 Jul 2016
Messages
5,930
Reaction score
1,094
Country
United Kingdom
Hi
They look bloody dangerous but….

I have a need to get inside a motorcycle mudguard to strip paint. It’s 4/5 inches across and roughly C shaped which makes a wire brush on an angle grinder very hard.

I have seen the extension posts and my idea is to use one for this task then bin the bloody thing.

Anyone used them? Sod doing it by hand? I have used a load of paint stripper so only an hour or so, wearing a face shield.
I’d be using a wire cup brush. I have tried a brush on a flexible drill shaft but it’s not tough enough.
 
Do you mean this sort of thing?

71LOKwxIAaL._AC_UF350,350_QL80_FMwebp_.jpg


Yes, those look like really safe applications, especially the top left one. BTW, that was an attempt at sarcasm.

In fact the bottom row don't look too bad, but you will need a side handle on the tool and if it catches on the workpiece you could find yourself in a world of pain. Maybe safer to beg or borrow a long nose die grinder or a Dremel TBH
 
Dremel won’t do it.
there is about 3 feet by 1 foot of paint to remove.
I may look for a tight ball like brush but the grinder is hard to get into the C shape - hence the extension idea.
 
You say a Dremel won't reach, but surely with the flexible shaft it would, wouldn't it?

71UYPTO0Z0L._AC_UF894,1000_QL80_FMwebp_.jpg


There are other, cheaper alternatives available for corded drills, too, and Katsu do one for the angle grinder
 
I have been using synstryp but my last tin is old.
It’s difficult and expensive to buy another 5 litres.

i have loads of dremel stuff, but the paint is 70 years old and buggered by the stripper.
even a 4” wheel and flexible shaft on a full drill isn’t man enough.

worst case I could burn it off.
 
DiyNutJob said:
They say brake fluid kills paint.
Click to expand...
just over 50 years ago used to use brake fluid to strip plastic triang/hornby /other makes but you had to be careful as the paint would fully strip well but it could soften older plastic or even degrade iff you wernt careful so drying fully supported and flat was a good idea
i never ever tried to rinse or clean just drip dry as it was just a basic operation not thought through fully to a rounded process as a teenager i was still learning ------- just like i am now:giggle:
 
Tigercubrider said:
i have loads of dremel stuff, but the paint is 70 years old and buggered by the stripper.
even a 4” wheel and flexible shaft on a full drill isn’t man enough.

worst case I could burn it off.
Click to expand...
Or take it to a local garage, engine repair or tyre place with a blasting cabinet (e.g a Guyson Beadblaster) and get it bead or shot blasted. Garages often use cherry pit or glass shot, which are fairly mild, depending on the mesh size. You might even come across a building where they are cleaning the masonry with a mobile shot blaster, which tend to use glass or sand as the medium. I've yet to see anything that steel shot, glass shot or sand can't shift. Safer than burning, too, which if the paint is lead-based might require a lot of heat leading to the mudguard deforming
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks but trying to do it on the cheap/ diy/ at home.
I can persevere .
I may try hand held stainless pot scourers with paint stripper. (Wet)

I do know someone with a blasting cabinet but try to limit calling in favours.
 
That extension shaft with a wire brush on looks low on the lethal jndex- in a controlled environment (ie not underneath a van in the rain) i'd give it a go.
The shot or vapour blasting may not as dear as you'd expect -paid £30 a wheel for my van (that was blasted and powdercoated) last year- and its quick and easy.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top