Anyone help a blonde with her roof lol?

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corine39

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Hi Guys
Hoping someone can help as I am struggling, but trying, to understand. I'm blonde lol!
I recently had a RICS damp survey on a rental property I own. The survey highlighted the following recommended actions:

• Repair/remove chimney stack
• Replace rot affected roof timbers
• Consider re-tiling, replacing felt and increasing insulation
• Rake out vegetation from mortar joints to front corner and repoint wall
• Reconnect joint to front drainpipe

I have had 2 quotes from roofers – but both are slightly different.
Contractor A
Supply Scaffolding
Remove defective chimney below roof line
Supply and fit new supporting joist
Supply and fit breathable membrane and 2x1 battens
Supply and fit concrete roof tile and ridges
Remove all debris from site
Contractor B
1. Erect ladder to rear roof slope and secure.
2. Grind out joints to brick work and clean off roof slope.
3. Reinstate missing lead flashings and secure.
4. Point stack with a red sand & cement composition and leave to dry.
5. Rub stack down then give It a coat of linseed oil.
6. Treat roof spar with wood preserver then fit and secure another length along
Existing timber.
6. Reinstate pipe to front wall.
7. Drop Ladders and remove all debris.

Extra works.
8. Locate chimney flues and fit Four Air Bricks to exterior gable wall.
9. Supply and fit Six Tile Vents to roof slopes.
With this second quote I have spoken with the roofer, as I felt more works were necessary to prevent the chimney becoming damp in the future – that is the reason for the extra works. He tells me the roof is in good condition and that the missing flashings are the cause of the leak.

Both roofers are Which approved, however my preference is for the second roofer (slightly cheaper and as a sole trader I would prefer to support his business).
Obviously, I want the right solution to the problem and don’t want to be ripped off. So my questions are
1) Which do you think would be the best solution to the problem highlighted by the surveyor - contractor A or B?
2) Do I need the all of the ‘extra’ solutions offered in contractor B’s quote? He felt the six tile vents would provide cross over ventilation and the chimney vents would stop it ‘sweating’.

Thanks for any help, and apologies if this is vague, but this is all I know.
 
Contractor B seems to work off a ladder.

I am not a roofer but I don't think that is suitable. Roofers often do things that make your hair stand on end.

Also, he suggests patching up the chimney.

IMO removing a redundant chimney, preferably below the roofline and roofing over it, is a better job because it permanently removes the need for future repairs and risk of more water penetration.

Contractor A mentions concrete tiles. Is that to match existing? Clay tiles are preferable if that's what you've got. A local roofer can often source some matching originals. He mentions breathable membrane which is good.
 
is Contractor A going to mend the downpipe? If water is running down the wall it will be a constant source of damp.

If it's plastic it might be a trivial job he didn't bother mentioning

but if cast iron there may be cracks, bad joints, rusted supports.

while he has the scaffold up will be the best time
 
Thanks for all your help so far - really appreciate it. JohnD - not sure what these tiles are? I will ask contractor A about the downpipe, although the property is on hill so not sure the water would affect the property, but it would look neater anyway.

Here are some images.

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And the tiles you have are concrete, it looks like the whole terrace was reroofed many years ago.

The quality of the original brickwork when the house was built looks very good, but neglect and water damage are bad. The lead flashing round the chimney is very bad. The bricks beneath the blocked gutter on the front of the house look damaged, though I can't see it clearly. I don't see a soil pipe or waste pipe so I guess it does not have an upstairs bathroom. Prod the roof timbers with a flat ended screwdriver to see how bad the rot is. Don't use anything round or pointed as the marks will look like woodworm.

You are lucky to have good access for a scaffold.
 
OP,
1. Being easily movable a 6 x 4 tower will work best for access at the gable & the front
2. No need to drop the chimney stack - the flashing & the stack capping are the causes of water penetration.
3. All the flashing needs removing and re-installed with one-piece step and cover flashing that covers another 150mm over the next tile profile.
Is that a loose piece of step flashing further down the roof not far from a roof vent?
4. The capping needs removing and a correctly detailed flaunching with clay pots & cowls should be installed.
5. All flues need sweeping. This is essential.
6. The stack needs to be raked out (using a thin grinder blade) to 25mm deep, & pointed (the whole gable probably needs re-pointing?).
7. Such thin beds & perps might need Mastic Sand pointing.

8. The bay CI down pipe can easily be repaired.
The main roof gutter is semi-blocked.
Is there a manhole in the cobbled area?

9. The rotten rafters in the loft can be cut out one at a time.
10. Treat the area with fungicide, & replace the rafters if necessary.
11. I cant see any need to replace the profiled concrete tiles and felt?

FWIW: Only one air brick can be seen & it looks to be too high - you need air bricks every 1.5m. All A/B's to be below suspended floor level.
Someone needs to go into the crawl space & examine all joists for rot?

What a wonderful terrace that is - hopefully, it can retain its original features.
AAMOF, all the stacks in view need work - a good job for a good roofer who can do leadwork & pointing.
 
A wonderful terrace where the end stack, the blonde lady's house , is already lower than the rest - option A get it gone (y) probably cheaper than new lead - IF you can find someone competent to do leadwork. And they'd want to do it over the ridge tile.
 
Thanks for all your kind replies. I appreciate you have taken time out of your busy days to respond.

Oh ree if only you were local. What a comprehensive answer! I think it is a loose piece of flashing. I have had gutter guards fitted so there should be no blocking but I will check. No manhole on the cobbled area.

Yes the floor is next on my list.

Do you think a good way forward is to put all of your points to contractor A, and let him explain his reasoning behind his quote?
 
If the stack is taken away and roofed over, you have no more need to repair that part, or renew the lead flashing, now or in the future,
 
Full gutter likely to be cause of much of the wet roof. Yours is very full .
 
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But not the cause of the damp above gutter level, or the rotting roof timbers, or the broken downpipe.
 
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