Attempt to build a brickwork retaining wall - Tips - helps advice needed

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Jonny Vee

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Hi Everyone,

I`m rising my patio to make more large area to the same level and need to build an L shape retaining wall 750mm tall. We have used a bricklayer for some job in the past but look like they have now completely lost their mind. Waiting time 2 month from we book them in and cost completely off the roof.

I have convinced myself to have a go and already dug foundation ready to poor concrete for the footing.

I made some straight blockwork wall in the past but nothing too long. This will 7m long on 1 side and 5 meter on the second side

Any tips, advice on tools to make it straight and square would be appreciated. I have watched some video where they use 4x2 hold on block to start the line but on my side this is starting from an existing wall then L shape and terminating next to a fence post.

Thanks
 
750mm is not that tall, you may want to think about how much you are going to be retaining and what it will be. You could just use railway sleepers and type 1 roadfill mixed cement to back fill, they use that at to holdback cuttings on railways, so will be good enough for waist high. Its a question of what you are retaining....pop out and have a look at dry stone walls , they can retain by sheer mass and friction 6 feet of earth.
 
Jonny Vee said:
Hi Everyone,

I`m rising my patio to make more large area to the same level and need to build an L shape retaining wall 750mm tall. We have used a bricklayer for some job in the past but look like they have now completely lost their mind. Waiting time 2 month from we book them in and cost completely off the roof.

I have convinced myself to have a go and already dug foundation ready to poor concrete for the footing.

I made some straight blockwork wall in the past but nothing too long. This will 7m long on 1 side and 5 meter on the second side

Any tips, advice on tools to make it straight and square would be appreciated. I have watched some video where they use 4x2 hold on block to start the line but on my side this is starting from an existing wall then L shape and terminating next to a fence post.

Thanks
Click to expand...
Use tape measures, pegs, levels, buiders square, laser levels and lines.

[GALLERY=media, 107999]Al9 by noseall posted 2 May 2022 at 10:25 AM[/GALLERY]
[GALLERY=media, 108000]Al10 by noseall posted 2 May 2022 at 10:25 AM[/GALLERY]
[GALLERY=media, 107997]Al7 by noseall posted 2 May 2022 at 10:25 AM[/GALLERY]
[GALLERY=media, 107996]Al6 by noseall posted 2 May 2022 at 10:25 AM[/GALLERY]

But not for any curvy bits....
[GALLERY=media, 107991]Al1 by noseall posted 2 May 2022 at 10:00 AM[/GALLERY]
[GALLERY=media, 107995]Al5 by noseall posted 2 May 2022 at 10:13 AM[/GALLERY]
:mrgreen:
 
Oh, and DONT use timber for retaining walls at any time. Timber and soil do not mix. Ask anyone who has had to replace their posts, sleepers after the standard 5 year rot.
 
If you've never done brickwork before then buy a "Brickie" tool. Not something a pro would use but produces instant, perfect beds and perps that you will really struggle to achieve with a trowel.
 
cdbe said:
If you've never done brickwork before then buy a "Brickie" tool. Not something a pro would use but produces instant, perfect beds and perps that you will really struggle to achieve with a trowel.
Click to expand...
It may produce perfect beds but would be utterly useless on the (imperfect and high suction) bricks in my image.
 
9” block on flat . rendered. cant go far wrong.
 
martygturner said:
Railway sleeps rot after 5 years what are you on nozzel...made up rubbish..
Click to expand...
Sorry you are right. Those in wetter non-exposed ground can rot in 3 years.

NEVER use wood in contact with soil. Its the cheap go-to for landscapers and DIY programmes and it is also shoite. It takes zero skill and looks awful after 8 seasons. Its slippery and it's lethal as steps - same goes for that awful wood decking - dross.
 
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