Bath taps + flexi hose with valve
- Thread starter JamB
- Start date
-
- Tags
- bath tap flexi hose
1. Why use flexi's. They restrict the flow, and are more liable to leaking.
2. Why not:
2a. Turn off hot and cold.
2b. Remove old taps and pipe work down to compression fittings on hot and cold supplies.
2c. Slacken compression fittings on hot and cold supply pipes and rotate to 90 degrees from wall. Re-tighten.
2d. Fit new taps.
2e. Pipe from tap shanks down with 3/4" x 22mm compression tap connector (don't forget 3/4" fiv=bre washer), stub of 22 mm pipe, 22 mm full bore isolation valve, stub of pipe long enough to reach supply pipes.
2f. 90 degree 22 mm compression tee, then short stub of pipe into existing tees on supply pipes. Alternatively, if suitable 22 mm street elbows direct into existing tees, but you would have to solder to new pipes.
3. All the above would in my opinion be better done with soldered joints, but depends on whether you have the equipment and experience.
4. If you must use flexis, you can get 300 mm or 500 mm long hoses with built in isolation valves and push fit connectors onto the supply pipes. But:
4a. You need to get a suitable length which will fit onto the supply pipes without tight bends or kinks.
4b. You will need a stub of pipe from the (existing?) tees to connect to. You might be able to get away with using STRAIGHT parts of the existing pipes.
You may find you need to remove the overflow fitting from the bath to get at the left hand (hot?) tap, as otherwise access is quite restricted.
2. Why not:
2a. Turn off hot and cold.
2b. Remove old taps and pipe work down to compression fittings on hot and cold supplies.
2c. Slacken compression fittings on hot and cold supply pipes and rotate to 90 degrees from wall. Re-tighten.
2d. Fit new taps.
2e. Pipe from tap shanks down with 3/4" x 22mm compression tap connector (don't forget 3/4" fiv=bre washer), stub of 22 mm pipe, 22 mm full bore isolation valve, stub of pipe long enough to reach supply pipes.
2f. 90 degree 22 mm compression tee, then short stub of pipe into existing tees on supply pipes. Alternatively, if suitable 22 mm street elbows direct into existing tees, but you would have to solder to new pipes.
3. All the above would in my opinion be better done with soldered joints, but depends on whether you have the equipment and experience.
4. If you must use flexis, you can get 300 mm or 500 mm long hoses with built in isolation valves and push fit connectors onto the supply pipes. But:
4a. You need to get a suitable length which will fit onto the supply pipes without tight bends or kinks.
4b. You will need a stub of pipe from the (existing?) tees to connect to. You might be able to get away with using STRAIGHT parts of the existing pipes.
You may find you need to remove the overflow fitting from the bath to get at the left hand (hot?) tap, as otherwise access is quite restricted.
Thanks for the reply. Didn't realise flexis are so bad. No equipment or experience unfortunately for soldering!
I did wonder about cutting the pipes and connecting there but wasn't sure if there is a straight enough section?
If not; Apart from cutting and fitting a new stub of pipe, are there any fittings I could use to connect the new flexi valve to the existing compression tee?
Did consider that but the stopcock is a bugger to access so flexis with integral isolation valves seemed like a good solution.
Flexi's are not really so bad IMO, especially if was awkward piping and you have good mains pressure and flow but what you have there is even better. Just good quality fibre washers and make sure the tap connector flanges are nice and clean and any remnants of the old fibre washer are removed.
With the water off you could cut full bore ISO's into the supply pipes for future servicing but careful of that bottom pipe as it and it's fittings look old and could be 3/4".
With the water off you could cut full bore ISO's into the supply pipes for future servicing but careful of that bottom pipe as it and it's fittings look old and could be 3/4".
No, the tee's you have there are are imperial type "B" drifted fittings where the pipe end is flared (drifted) out and goes over a brass cone inside the fitting so best left undisturbed. You would still need access to the stopcock anyway to fit flexi's with valves so leaving it the way it is you are only undoing the plastic back nut on the tap and the very top brass nut on each tap tail.
Thanks, sounds like this is the way to go
Glad I asked here first, was tempted to steam in and start undoing what I thought was a standard Type A fitting!