Bathroom renovation - tiles vs shower panels

[JWazza]

Hello everyone,

I'm seeking some advice for my upcoming bathroom renovation, which will be my first. While I consider myself moderately skilled in DIY, I could use some guidance and reassurance regarding my plans to renovate our ensuite.

Since moving in six weeks ago, we're now onto our sixth leak, the most recent occurring in our ensuite. Initially, I suspected it was due to waste water pipe but upon closer inspection, it seems there was a previous leak closer to the mixer tap, leading to rot in the studwall.

My intention is to keep the bathroom fixtures in their current positions, except for the shower waste, for which we plan to install a low-profile shower tray and so will move accordingly. Here's my proposed plan of action:

1. Remove and replace the floorboard, opting for either chipboard or plywood. Is there a recommended for a low-profile shower tray? I've heard plywood is better?
2. Re-route necessary shower waste pipes to accommodate the new waste trap location.
3. Treat affected areas with Ronseal Wood Rot Hardener and install new 2x4 timber alongside the existing stud walls. Although the damage looks severe in photos, I'm confident in securing a solid fixture to the old studs.

However, I'm a bit uncertain about the next step. I'm torn between tiling and using shower panels (such as Multipanel), with the latter seeming more appealing due to recent leak issues.

Regardless of the choice, I'll need to repair the walls to the left and right of the mixer tap. These walls consist of brick and plaster (?) on one side and breeze block and plaster (?) on the other. For the wall with the mixer tap, my plan was to install hardie tile backer unless others suggest otherwise.

My main question is how to effectively repair the walls on the left and right sides. Should I:

1) Install the tile backer first on the mixer wall
2) Remove the old tile adhesive from the left and right wall, and then use Gyproc 60 to fill in any significant gaps?

I would use tile backer on the left and right wall - but this would overhang the door frame, and furthermore - i'm looking to either tile or shower panel the entire room - and so this would create a lip.

Any advice or guidance would be greatly appreciated!

 

[ree]

Jwazza,
One look at your bathroom pics suggests to me that if I was going to do the job then I would remove all fixtures (except the extractor) from the room.
If needed, the WC could be replaced each evening after work.
Why doesn't the WC soil pipe go straight out thro the outside wall?
The shower wall framing must be replaced - so must the return backing studs on the RH side & the LH side
ie. all damaged studs & bottom plates must be replaced - there are signs of possible early Dry Rot.
All damaged ply flooring must be cut out - the damage might extend under the wall plates, and down onto the joists below the ply.
Why not open up all damaged areas, clear all rubble, and then post pics of the exposed areas?

Where backer board is being fixed then the plasterboard is first removed.
All three wet shower walls require backer board for tiling.
All exposed & new timber work is usually sprayed with fungicide.
Properly fixed, shower panels in wet areas are much more safe than tiles.
MDF flooring is cheap and works fine.
Shower bars must be fixed in the wall - no movement.
Shower wastes require some kind of access to the trap.
.

 

[JWazza]

Hi Ree,

Thanks for the time you've taken to respond. Going through your post in order:

- All fixtures will be removed and replaced with new. I omitted that from my list above.
- Do you not think the studs can be kept in, with the rot hardener applied and new timber attached? My understanding is that it is there only to hold the plasterboard either side of the stud - the plasterboard you can see still has a firm attachment to the rear of the rotted studs (it's only impacting circa 20% of the wood, bathroom side). The new plasterboard/backerboard would be attached to the new wood.

Good point on the water impacting joists and other bits below - I won't know until this has been opened up, which I will do on the weekend and report back with photos. If it is - thats much to big a job for me and i'd call in the professionals!

Where backer board is being fixed then the plasterboard is first removed.

Are you suggesting I need to take the walls back to brick (left wall) and breeze block (right wall)?

Access to the waste trap can be had from underneath the bathroom in emergencies.

 

[ree]

I would remove the damaged framing.

Yes, go back.