Hi everyone, the bathroom wooden door at my house does not close properly these doors are very heavy, the wooden frame holing the hinge has split, there’s the hinge is not right to frame and the wooden door keeps dropping and not aligned with door frame, the door does not close properly. What are the solutions can additional hinges be added to the frame where there is no crack or does the frame need removing and replacing any advice would be great thank you have added pictures
Bathroom wooden door not closing
- Thread starter Mojo12345
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There should me 3 hinges for a heavy door. Also hanging stuff off a heavy door makes the problem worst. There's not much you can do with a damaged frame but to replace it. The door stop is too close to the frame. The levering action is probably what caused the frame to fail. If the stop is close to the end of the door leaf, this will eliminate the levering.
Two hinges will easily hold the door to the frame if it had been mounted correctly, but it hasn’t.
Frame also has architrave incorrectly fitted contributing to the miss fitting of the door.Refit architrave and door.
Frame also has architrave incorrectly fitted contributing to the miss fitting of the door.Refit architrave and door.
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Hinge needs to come out 3mm or more by looks of it. Also set too deep.
It's sometimes better to replace the wooden door stop after hanging a new door..
You've got a split in the frame at top hinge that needs sorting.
New metric doors are narrower than the old Imperial width doors, so when the new narrower door is fitted they tend to be pushed in too far, causing them not to shut properly. The answer is to fit the door in the correct location then fit a new door stop.
It's sometimes better to replace the wooden door stop after hanging a new door..
You've got a split in the frame at top hinge that needs sorting.
New metric doors are narrower than the old Imperial width doors, so when the new narrower door is fitted they tend to be pushed in too far, causing them not to shut properly. The answer is to fit the door in the correct location then fit a new door stop.
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Looks like that hinge has essentially been mounted with all 3 screws driven into the joint between the architrave and the door frame, or so close to the edge of the frame that it's just split and jacked the architrave away
Seek 3 better (bigger) hinges with an offset screw pattern of 4 holes, that will see them mounted further away from the edge of the wood. If the door doesn't open 180 degrees you can gain a few more mm away from the edge of the frame by sinking the butt of the hinge into the door and the frame.
Use short, fully threaded screws with a deep thread that give good grip without colliding with the brickwork (if it's brickwork; if it's stud work, use longer screws) behind the frame. If the screws are thick (eg if your new hinges take a number 6 screw) consider pilot drilling the hole to avoid splitting the frame. Also, on an offset hole hinge, for the two screw holes near the edge of the frame/door, consider angling them slightly so the screws drive away from the edge. Chisel the recesses on the door and frame to the correct depth to ensure the door sits centrally in its gap and doesn't bind on the hinge side of the frame when closed. If the door is very tight in the gap it needs to be reduced or the gap increased
Personally I think brown wood doors mounted in white painted frames look gash, so I'd be replacing the frame anyway, but you should be able to make do with the one you have if you need.
Interestingly, there is a depression around the hinge that looks like there used to be an older hinge, surface mounted (or a fairly good repair made) there..
Seek 3 better (bigger) hinges with an offset screw pattern of 4 holes, that will see them mounted further away from the edge of the wood. If the door doesn't open 180 degrees you can gain a few more mm away from the edge of the frame by sinking the butt of the hinge into the door and the frame.
Use short, fully threaded screws with a deep thread that give good grip without colliding with the brickwork (if it's brickwork; if it's stud work, use longer screws) behind the frame. If the screws are thick (eg if your new hinges take a number 6 screw) consider pilot drilling the hole to avoid splitting the frame. Also, on an offset hole hinge, for the two screw holes near the edge of the frame/door, consider angling them slightly so the screws drive away from the edge. Chisel the recesses on the door and frame to the correct depth to ensure the door sits centrally in its gap and doesn't bind on the hinge side of the frame when closed. If the door is very tight in the gap it needs to be reduced or the gap increased
Personally I think brown wood doors mounted in white painted frames look gash, so I'd be replacing the frame anyway, but you should be able to make do with the one you have if you need.
Interestingly, there is a depression around the hinge that looks like there used to be an older hinge, surface mounted (or a fairly good repair made) there..
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