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- 16 Jan 2021
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Beko DW686 Dishwasher
Our Dishwasher didn't drain so I took of the lower panel and saw a blocked pipe from the sump. I cleared the block and the dishwasher worked again for 2 or 3 washes.
It then got stuck on drain again. I took the lower panel off and it had some water in it causing the float/flood switch to engage. I looked for leaks in the pipe I had unblocked but it seemed alright.
I cleared the water in the lower tray and restarted the machine. What seemed to be happening is the machine is draining then filling. It then stops for a minute or two and starts filling again, it keeps doing this until it floods, trips the float switch and drains again.
I ran the diagnostic test and it says it's not getting any water, but it's the opposite; it's getting too much water.
So I checked the inlet impeller- which is spinning fine. I then removed and checked the reed switch in front of the inlet impeller and that has continuity when I put a magnet near it. So that seems to be fine. I checked the wires from the reed switch to the main board and there is continuity there as well.
I put a multimeter (on continuity) on the reed switch pads whilst the dishwasher was filling and expected the multimeter tone to go on and off but it remained silent -do you think it's because the impeller spins too fast for the meter to register, or is it evidence that the switch is not working well enough.
Could the magnet on the impeller have lost charge? or could the reed switch not be sensitive enough any more?
There seems to be another reed switch on the salt dispenser/water purifier unit. It has what I thought was a float switch near it so I thought that perhaps it was not floating properly,
I drained the salt dispenser and removed it and the magnet moves freely when I tip the unit upside down.SO it has free movement, but it stays put and completes the circuit when the salt compartment it full of water
So I removed the switch from near the magnet (whilst it's still wired) to simulate the magnet part moving but that had no effect.
DO you know what the salt reservoir reed switch/magnet is for?
I'm stuck now I'm not sure what else could cause the diagnostic to think there is no water.
Ta
Rich
Our Dishwasher didn't drain so I took of the lower panel and saw a blocked pipe from the sump. I cleared the block and the dishwasher worked again for 2 or 3 washes.
It then got stuck on drain again. I took the lower panel off and it had some water in it causing the float/flood switch to engage. I looked for leaks in the pipe I had unblocked but it seemed alright.
I cleared the water in the lower tray and restarted the machine. What seemed to be happening is the machine is draining then filling. It then stops for a minute or two and starts filling again, it keeps doing this until it floods, trips the float switch and drains again.
I ran the diagnostic test and it says it's not getting any water, but it's the opposite; it's getting too much water.
So I checked the inlet impeller- which is spinning fine. I then removed and checked the reed switch in front of the inlet impeller and that has continuity when I put a magnet near it. So that seems to be fine. I checked the wires from the reed switch to the main board and there is continuity there as well.
I put a multimeter (on continuity) on the reed switch pads whilst the dishwasher was filling and expected the multimeter tone to go on and off but it remained silent -do you think it's because the impeller spins too fast for the meter to register, or is it evidence that the switch is not working well enough.
Could the magnet on the impeller have lost charge? or could the reed switch not be sensitive enough any more?
There seems to be another reed switch on the salt dispenser/water purifier unit. It has what I thought was a float switch near it so I thought that perhaps it was not floating properly,
I drained the salt dispenser and removed it and the magnet moves freely when I tip the unit upside down.SO it has free movement, but it stays put and completes the circuit when the salt compartment it full of water
So I removed the switch from near the magnet (whilst it's still wired) to simulate the magnet part moving but that had no effect.
DO you know what the salt reservoir reed switch/magnet is for?
I'm stuck now I'm not sure what else could cause the diagnostic to think there is no water.
Ta
Rich
With wires traversing a door opening, the constant bending/flexing over the years could have caused a wire core to break internally - so yes, it's entirely possible that it works/tests OK sometimes, and as the guy acknowledges, if one wire has already broken in his machine, what state are the rest in? i.e. it might be one of the other sensors/wires in your particular case. Case of continuity testing each and giving each wire a good waggle about really. Hope you find it - I agree, it's so wasteful to just scrap perfectly serviceable machines.