Best method for plumbing a towel rail

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smallsteve1

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I have removed a rad from the bathroom that was fed from 10mm plastic pipe (see attached pic), which had been chased into the wall; I dread to think how deep they went! I now need to move the pipes higher up the wall for the replacement towel rail and my query relates to the best way to do this? I'm really looking for the method that involves the minimum amount (depth) of channelling?

If I were to use 15mm copper and elbow, or 10mm Speedfit with coldform elbow, I would probably need to go deeper than the recommended 30% through the Thermalite block i.e. something around 40mm!?

My current best guess is to use 10mm microbore and where it comes out from the wall, use a 10-15mm elbow and have a piece of 15mm copper to insert into the valve. I could then use a stainless steel / chrome shroud to hide the copper!?

I've got access to the floor currently and so there are no restrictions in that regard.

What do you folks recommend?

TIA
 

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Do the pipes run under the flooring before going into the wall ?
If so re route below the floor and bring chrome plated copper pipes straight up to the rad. the
 
Do the pipes run under the flooring before going into the wall ?
If so re route below the floor and bring chrome plated copper pipes straight up to the rad.
 
terryplumb said:
Do the pipes run under the flooring before going into the wall ?
If so re route below the floor and bring chrome plated copper pipes straight up to the rad.
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Do you mean as in have the piping on the outside of the wall? If so, it would mean over 400 mm of pipe being on show, as the rail is only 700 (h) x 500 (w) and I’m not sure that would look too great.
 
Why do you think the rad needs to be 400mm higher than the floor level ?
Yes to the pipes being on the outside of the wall and vertically upto the rad.
 
terryplumb said:
Why do you think the rad needs to be 400mm higher than the floor level ?
Yes to the pipes being on the outside of the wall and vertically upto the rad.
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Just because it is such a small rad that I thought it would look better higher up the wall.
The pic shows the rail at 150mm - ignore piping!
 

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It's up to you where you put it ,but that's a small rad, are you sure it's gonna give enough heat ?
 
Hmm, attached pic has rail at 250mm and it doesn’t look too bad actually. I suppose the other thing is that with the toilet installed, as marked on the wall, you won’t actually see the pipe as you walk in as the toilet will hide it.
 

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terryplumb said:
It's up to you where you put it ,but that's a small rad, are you sure it's gonna give enough heat ?
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Yes, it’s stainless steel and kicks-out 1300 BTU at delta-50, which is equivalent to the smaller radiator that was there previously and even that was never on full.
 
As said ,it's entirely up to you. I would use chrome rad valves,and chrome plated copper ,and chrome pipe covers at the floor.
 
terryplumb said:
As said ,it's entirely up to you. I would use chrome rad valves,and chrome plated copper ,and chrome pipe covers at the floor.
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Okay thanks for that. What’s the best way of removing the chrome at each end to make a connection? Is it easy to get a water tight seal afterwards?
 
If you are connecting to plastic pipe you must use a compression fitting ,you cannot use push fit on chrome plated copper unless you file off all traces of chrome.
And soldering plastic pipe isn't an option either !!!!!
 
terryplumb said:
If you are connecting to plastic pipe you must use a compression fitting ,you cannot use push fit on chrome plated copper unless you file off all traces of chrome.
And soldering plastic pipe isn't an option either !!!!!
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I was primarily thinking about removal of the plating so that the pipe could be inserted into a JG joint that would then have the rest of its run in plastic. Was wondering how easy that is to do and make a successful joint? From your response I guess it is a case of using a standard file!?
 
Not difficult to file off with a smoothe file ,and abrasive strip to give a fine finish. Take care not to overdo it with the file and deform the pipe.
Why not use a compression fitting ?
 
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