Blanking plate with hole at the top for wire inlet?

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Hi. I have just removed an old single wall socket. I am considering how best to blank off the wires - they are quite thick, and a fridge-freezer will now be backed up to the wall, so I guess it needs to be well-protected from the grill on the back of the fridge, and also as flat as possible as depth will be tight). I have come across blanking plates which seem to be the best solution except they have no hole in the top for the wires to come from (these wires come down from above, not inside the wall). Does anyone have a solution to this? I guess I could cut a notch in a blanking plate if they don't sell them with the hole.
341685985_1260601841521315_4214890504392077518_n.jpg
 
Fit a surface mounted box - if needed a double to straddle the hole or just chase the cable into the wall if it's going to be behind the trunking/conduit that's there at present - is that a wooden panel?
 
Use a single surface pattress box
16mm deep is thinnest I can find. The come with knockout holes for the wires to enter.

And a blanking pate.

Wires should be joined in three chock blocks, terminal strip or wango connectors ( not tape).
 
as sunray says you might be able to remove it or failing that use the box and plate that SFK suggested but remove the conduit and put the box right up against the ceiling out the way
 
As it's surface mounted why not try to remove it completely?

Where does it go to at thetop?
thanks. that's a cupboard it goes into at the top there, visible in the pic - so it's behind the cupboard.
 
If it passes right through the cupboard, does it appear above it?

If so put the junction box up there.
 
How high is the cupboard and how tall is your fridge freezer?

if there is space for a socket in the gap it could make a lot of sense to have the socket above the fridge, and use it for the fridge.
1682675332987.png


As an alternative, if the cables are long enough to move sideways
1682675161093.png
 
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How high is the cupboard and how tall is your fridge freezer?

if there is space for a socket in the gap it could make a lot of sense to have the socket above the fridge, and use it for the fridge.
View attachment 302057

As an alternative, if the cables are long enough to move sideways
View attachment 302056
Thanks for the help everyone. You're right - it would be better to install a new socket for the fridge than to terminate the wire. To that end, I've attempted to remove the trunking. I removed the clip, and after a bit of wiggling I am now able to bend it to the right. However, I can't pull it off over the wires. I'm not sure what's going on behind the cupboard but I can't get the trunking off. The cupboard goes up to about an inch below the ceiling, and I can see the same-looking trunking up there too - so it may be one long piece. Does anyone have any ideas on how to remove/cut the trunking in a way that I can still trunk it nicely to the top right, as suggested? Or even have the new socket just above the fridge (there will be about 10cm gap).
Trunking feels very rigid - is it PVC?
 
It looks like the 'standard' PVC to me.
If you have access to the ceiling void above; straighten the ends of the wires and pull both cables out, cut the tube with hacksaw blade and replace cables.
 
It looks like the 'standard' PVC to me.
If you have access to the ceiling void above; straighten the ends of the wires and pull both cables out, cut the tube with hacksaw blade and replace cables.
Unfortunately the room above has a wardrobe over the area, and even if I moved it I wouldn't know how to get into the floorboards under the carpet. Do you have any experience with using nylon string or something to deal with this with the cables in situ? (Power switched off, of course)
 
you might be able to cut up the centre of the conduit between the cables with a pair of secatuers, take care and do about half an inch per "bite" or you might be able to use dental floss wrapped slightly round the conduit to cut it, gently does it though.

PS dont put the used bit of floss back in the bathroom...........
 
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