Bridging thermostat ready for Hive

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Hi all

Installing a hive in replacement of our antique Honeywell St699.

Just wanted to check regarding the wiring of the thermostat to bridge it. Am I right in thinking yellow wire needs to join blue to complete the circuit? [GALLERY=media, 103373]IMG_20191003_140921 by Thematrix12 posted 3 Oct 2019 at 2:45 PM[/GALLERY][GALLERY=media, 103374]IMG_20191003_140209 by Thematrix12 posted 3 Oct 2019 at 2:45 PM[/GALLERY][GALLERY=media, 103375]IMG_20191002_204349 by Thematrix12 posted 3 Oct 2019 at 2:45 PM[/GALLERY]
 
No, blue is in terminal 2 which is shown as neutral on the diagram, it shows you that it switches between number 1 and 3
 
Thanks for the reply. So 3 and 4 need joining as they are the switch?
No, read yorkspark's reply again. He says 1 & 3 are the switch. I think you'll find 4 isn't connected to anything.

It would be a better job to disconnect and remove the old thermostat altogether rather than trying to use it as a rather unnecessary junction box.
 
Think you are getting confused , are you trying to fit a Hive dual channel to control CH and HW ?
 
The wiring diagram shown on case does not seem to match the thermostat, so I would actually test thermostat to see what it does, but the other problem is the programmer only shows one wire in L (Line) the two relays are volt free, Hive is not volt free when using the CH and DHW version, so it may not be suitable?

In the main boilers have three methods of controlling them.
1) 230 VAC i.e. mains voltage.
2) 24 volt may be either AC or DC.
3) Variable voltage the boiler does not switch off/on but up down.
Clearly your not using third option, even if the boiler can use it, and Hive can't use the third option either, so if you want Hive even if the boiler allows control with the ebus, you can't use it. With a single channel Hive it does have volt free contacts, but when it controls domestic hot water as well it does not, you must check on boiler spec.

There are loads of wall thermostats/hubs which like Hive connect to internet and like Hive link to the TRV heads. Some like Hive you can add TRV heads latter, some use the head to control the boiler, also some have other controls my son tells me Nest can link to the smoke alarm and detect people at home and turn up heating when people are at home, I have Nest but not found that function, many functions are IFTTT and I have not worked it all out.

So it may be your using Hive to match up with stuff you already have? I decided to fit Hive as I liked the way the TRV heads worked, but found I needed volt free so fitted Nest instead. Hind sight, and hind sight is easy, should have fitted EvoHome, but Nest does work well.

So what is your reason for fitting Hive, maybe there is a better option for you?
 
IMG_20191004_093412.jpg

No, read yorkspark's reply again. He says 1 & 3 are the switch. I think you'll find 4 isn't connected to anything.

It would be a better job to disconnect and remove the old thermostat altogether rather than trying to use it as a rather unnecessary junction box.

I've traced back what I think is the thermostat to the wiring centre. The cable marked orange is the one I believe to be coming from the thermostat. I understand I need to bridge so I can't just remove, the cable marked green goes to the current programmer and joins the thermostat neutral (as seen in photo). Which two is it from here that need joining? Sorry to sound like an idiot.. It was far easier when installing on my standard combi!
 
Think you are getting confused , are you trying to fit a Hive dual channel to control CH and HW ?
Exactly that.

The wiring diagram shown on case does not seem to match the thermostat, so I would actually test thermostat to see what it does, but the other problem is the programmer only shows one wire in L (Line) the two relays are volt free, Hive is not volt free when using the CH and DHW version, so it may not be suitable?

In the main boilers have three methods of controlling them.
1) 230 VAC i.e. mains voltage.
2) 24 volt may be either AC or DC.
3) Variable voltage the boiler does not switch off/on but up down.
Clearly your not using third option, even if the boiler can use it, and Hive can't use the third option either, so if you want Hive even if the boiler allows control with the ebus, you can't use it. With a single channel Hive it does have volt free contacts, but when it controls domestic hot water as well it does not, you must check on boiler spec.

There are loads of wall thermostats/hubs which like Hive connect to internet and like Hive link to the TRV heads. Some like Hive you can add TRV heads latter, some use the head to control the boiler, also some have other controls my son tells me Nest can link to the smoke alarm and detect people at home and turn up heating when people are at home, I have Nest but not found that function, many functions are IFTTT and I have not worked it all out.

So it may be your using Hive to match up with stuff you already have? I decided to fit Hive as I liked the way the TRV heads worked, but found I needed volt free so fitted Nest instead. Hind sight, and hind sight is easy, should have fitted EvoHome, but Nest does work well.

So what is your reason for fitting Hive, maybe there is a better option for you?

The boiler is a Gloworm Micron 60FF - pretty ancient by todays standards but still going strong. I've tried to find a wiring diagram to find out about the options you mentioned but to no avail.
 
The hive dual channel controls either the 3 port valve or the 2 x 2 port valves depending on your system and the valves then control the boiler
 
the other problem is the programmer only shows one wire in L (Line) the two relays are volt free, Hive is not volt free when using the CH and DHW version, so it may not be suitable?
Incorrect.

There is a link between L and 5, and another link between 5 and 8. So the relays are not volt-free.
 
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