building a desk - veneered mdf or ply?

[damson]

Just finished designing the look of a fitted desk for our study and I want to use either mdf or ply to make it up but I'm not sure what the differences are - if any? Mdf can be very heavy, I know - is the veneered stuff easy to work with - and easy to get hold of? Is there anywhere that lists what the regular thicknesses and sheet sizes are? I quite like the stripy effect of plywood on the edges but I find it nicks really easily when I cut it. I 'd like to use real wood but am afraid that it will warp etc.

Or is there another alternative I haven't thought of?

It's a pretty simple design - I'd like to use 1 inch + for the sides and top - any thoughts at all much appreciated.

cheers

 

[damson]

with link to online timber merchant so that answers the question of sizes.

Still, any thoughts on which is best to go with much appreciated!

 

[salem2000]

Personally I would go for Veneered Ply as this would give greater strenth. It is more expensive than MDF, but I think It's worth it.

 

[Studders]

I 'd like to use real wood but am afraid that it will warp etc.

Or is there another alternative I haven't thought of?

It's a pretty simple design - I'd like to use 1 inch + for the sides and top - any thoughts at all much appreciated.

cheers

If your desk is anything like mine, contents I mean - not design, then 1" will not be thick enough as it will bow. Have you thought of using kiln dried, planned all round 'strips' of hardwood or even a decent softwood ? You will need to glue the edges on the top and you could use the same size for the legs. Something around 45mm x 100mm should do and would give you a nice effect if you are staining or varnishing.

 

[David P]

In my experience mdf sags badly even under its own weight - so thicker can mean even more bowed.
ply is ok but is not intended for resisting bend rather it is for rigidity with a framework. the answer could be good old fashioned blockboard which is designed to have dimensional stability as a span.
you can get very good veneered blockboard and its fairly easy to add a strip of wood to the front.

although a nifty thing ive seen done is to face it with angle iron (so the board rests in the L) screwed from below or glued - this actually adds a brace and takes up no knee room - you do have to match the size of the angle iron to the board thickness though. the metal can be polished and laquered to stop it patinating.

 

[damson]

Looks like it's veneered ply or blockboard then! Thanks! I should have explained that my design is basically two box shapes (but with drawers etc) with a board on top ( I think it's called a knee hole desk?!?) so it should be reasonably rigid I think and there should only be a 50 cm bit of the desk top without any real support.

I'll let you know how I get on!