CBN grinding wheel.

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@ JobAndKnock. Think you may be the best guy to ask this.
I'm looking at getting a CBN wheel for my lathe tools but don't know what grade I should go for.
I think 80 - 150 may be a bit too coarse so am looking at maybe 180- 240. I think 320 may be a bit too smooth.
Do you have any thoughts on this?
Don't worry, I won't hold you responsible if I get it wrong, just looking for a bit of guidance.
 
Surely the question has to be, are you looking for a wheel to shape tools and/or do a lot of hogging material off, or for one which will take less material off but give a finer finished edge? My understanding from researching these is that 80 grit is better for general shaping whereas 180 grit is better for fine finishing of turning tools and will leave a good enough edge for turning. When you are wood turning, you need to constantly retouch the edge of the tool, and to keep a good workflow up speed normally wins out a bit over fineness of finish. Above 180 grit you can get 360 and 600 grits, but it is my understanding is that they are more suitable for maintaining the edges on carving tools, where a far sharper edge is a must, but again frequent resharpening is the order of the day. For comparison, when I had a lathe I used to rough HSS lathe tools on a 36 grit wheel, then finish on a pink 80 or 100 grit wheel (because pink stones are less friable than white so they last a bit longer)

I did look at these a few years back as an alternative way to sharpen my various hand tools (I had a Tormek and an old Wolf double-ended grinder at the time), even going as far as taking a trip to somewhere where they sold CBN wheels to try one out,. I thought their performance on tool steel (as commonly used for hand chisels and plane irons) was OK but that the grits just didn't go high enough for my liking (at least not at affordable prices). So being as how I no longer turn I eventually went with a Sorby ProEdge as being a better approach for me. Whilst I was there I did try a couple of HSS turning chisels (on 180 grit) and for those the CBN wheels cut quickly the tools came off the wheel impressively cool without the need for any lubricant or the need to continuously dip the tool in water to avoid burning. I was told that CBN wheels can wear quickly if used a lot for reshaping (e.g. tools like thumb nail gouges), although I have no personal experience of this. This is the one disadvantage of traditional high speed grinders, so I can see why a turner or carver would regard this as important.

They are expensive, so I'd sincerely recommend trying to see a demo on a woodworking show (maybe take one of your own goiuges along and get them to sharpen it for you) or arrange a demo at a suppliers
 
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My aim is to just keep a sharp edge on the gouges. A lot of YT videos recommend the CBN variety to prevent taking too much metal away, and getting them hot as you say. What I find strange, (and nobody has been able to answer this for me), is that on a plane blade or a hand chisel you have two edges, i.e. a bevel, at the cutting edge to help prevent wear/blunting, but you don't on turning tools.
Thanks for the info. I'll contact a local turning club and ask if I can pop along one evening and have a look at what they do. May even entice me to join and teach me properly. LOL (y)
 
What I find strange, (and nobody has been able to answer this for me), is that on a plane blade or a hand chisel you have two edges, i.e. a bevel, at the cutting edge to help prevent wear/blunting, but you don't on turning tools.
Then allow me to answer that for you...

Bench plane irons get a lot of use, and require frequent resharpening. This was especially the case in the days before machine planing (early to mid 19th Century) when every square inch of floorboard surface, panelling, etc had to be planed by hand. All they had to do this were big wooden planes with thick, tapered irons. If you've ever ground the full bevel of a 2in/50mm chisel by hand to get the nicks out you will know exactly how much work this is on a thick tool. Now imagine that you are a bench joiner back in the 1780s charged with planing hundreds of feet of oak decking for the Royal Naval Dockyards every day, by hand (there are now power tools back then). Oak being oak it will blunt your plane iron mayve every 15 to 20 minutes in the course of the day. If you don't sharpen your plane iron regularly when it starts to blunt you will soon reach the point where you simply aren't strong enough to push the plane along the oak at all. But if you stop to hand sharpen the iron it you will loose 5 to 10 minutes of your paid work time (because you are on price work). The solution is to sharpen at a main angle, say 30°, then put a micro bevel on the iron at 5° less, or 35°. That micro bevel is only a millimetre or so wide, but the cutting edge whilst slightly blunter actually has a stronger edge (so will keep it's edge longer), and leaves the blade in the main part to behave as though it is a 30° bevel throughout. In addition honing that micro bevel takes only seconds, so you can hone the blade up to maybe a dozen times before needing to do a full regrind because the micro bevel is now 4 or more millimetres wide. That will save you maybe an hour's effort every day.

They found that the same principle could also be applied to bench chisels, which also tend to be the workhorses and get resharpened regularly.

But you won't see the same approach on moulding plane irons (because life is too short and you also risk deforming the shape of the iron - the ruddy things are often difficult enough to sharpen well with a single bevel), the same goes for gouges and carving tools, and you don't see them on mortise chisels which are already much blunter than bench chsiels and which often aren't used so intensively.

Turning tools are somewhat like carving tools in that they are often awkward to apply a secondary bevel to without messing up the cutting edge profile (think roughing gouges). Combine that with the frequent need for resharpening, and a secondary bevel quickly becomes an unaffordable luxury which delivers very few, if any, advantages to the turner in most cases.
 
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