Ceiling Rose to Wago Connectors

T

Tanveerym

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Hi
I am really new at DIY.

My bedroom ceiling light needs replacing. I currently have a ceiling rose connector which needs to be changed using wago connectors.

[GALLERY=media, 100023]IMG_2487 by Tanveerym posted 11 Jul 2017 at 7:13 PM[/GALLERY]

Please could somebody help me with how many wago connectors I need and which wires need to go where? I have a 75 piece box of common wago connectors.

Thanks in advance.

Tan
 
Why do you need wagos? Just isolate the circuit at the main switch, label everything carefully, then photograph it and then replace like for like. Give all the wires a tug with pliers to check it's secure before you turn the power on.
Why are you replacing it?
 
Hi John
Thanks for the quick response. Wago connectors are easy for plug and play specially when you are working at a height. I bought a new LED Ceiling light which will not fit over the ceiling rose and hence the ceiling rose needs dismantling.
 
Ah OK fair enough, in that case use 3 way wagos on the live loop (red middle) and neutral (black/blue) and 2 way on the switched live (red/brown) and 4 way on the earth, make sure you earth the body of the light if it needs it. Make sure the ones you user are suitable for 1.5mm solid cable and also whatever cable your light fitting has, probably thinner stranded.
 
Your new light is likely to have flexible cable, so unless your set of wagos includes some of the Lever ones then you will struggle.
 
Thanks John & Rocky
Okay just to confirm...Sorry to be dumb but want to clarify as I do not want to risk anything with electrical and it is my first time.
The New LED light does not need earth. Therefore I will put 3x earth wires into a 222-413 connector.
[GALLERY=media, 100026]Wago-222-413-compact-splicing-connector-3-conductor-terminal-block-261-1000x1000 by Tanveerym posted 11 Jul 2017 at 8:29 PM[/GALLERY]

The Middle loop (3x red loop cables) again go into a 222-413 connector
[GALLERY=media, 100026]Wago-222-413-compact-splicing-connector-3-conductor-terminal-block-261-1000x1000 by Tanveerym posted 11 Jul 2017 at 8:29 PM[/GALLERY]

2x Neutral go into 224-112 and one comes out which goes to the LED Ceiling Light.
[GALLERY=media, 100025]WA112 by Tanveerym posted 11 Jul 2017 at 8:27 PM[/GALLERY]

1x Red Live goes into 224-101 connector and 1x comes out of the other end which goes into the LED Ceiling light.
[GALLERY=media, 100024]WA101 by Tanveerym posted 11 Jul 2017 at 8:25 PM[/GALLERY]

Please confirm if this is okay.
 
Yes, that's right.

Don't get the reds mixed up. The single one is not just any one of them.

Mark it first before disconnecting.
 
@securespark Nope there's no reason for the op to have to sign a declaration staying that they were responsibly for the design and installations/testing, so we should be OK!
 
Why did the OE struggle with the earths?

Surely easier to put them in their terminals coming from the other direction?
 
Just a thought ...
Is there any reason that the 224-112 can't have a solid cable in the "stranded" entry ? It's still going to have the same spring loaded connection - the only different is normally the ability to manually lift the terminal as stranded cable isn't strong enough to push into the other types.
If there's no objection, the whole thing scan be done with 4 of them - which (unless the OP already has a selection box) means buying just one type of connector instead of 3 or 4. So loop in and loop out go into the solid ports of three blocks (L, N, & E). L & E to the switch goes into the stranded ports of the L & E connectors. Switched live from the switch goes into one solid port of the forth terminal - and the pendent 2 core cable then goes into the stranded port of the N and switched L terminals.
 
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