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- 17 Aug 2004
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Hi,
Currently in a house with a Baxi 80e combi boiler, which presumably at one time was connected to the Honeywell T6360B thermostat.
At present the wire has been severed between the boiler and the thermostat, and the internal link between terminals 1 and 2 on the boiler has been connected hence CH is always on when the fitted mechanical timer is set ON.
Don't want the hassle of ripping out and replacing cables for a wired thermostat so looking at wireless. However, I am a little confused on some (such as the Salus RT500RF) which requires not only the link from the boiler but also its own power supply.
I had hoped to simply fit the live and switched live to terminals 1 and 2 respectively, thinking that the wireless receiver then by nature always has 230VAC power, and of course removing the internal link between terminals 1 and 2. If this isn't the case then I don't have an easy way to introduce the additional L and N the receiver seems to need.
The Salus RT500RF has terminals listed thus:
1 NO Normally Open [N/O]
2 COM Linked Live feed (230V AC heating applications only)
3 L Live feed (230V AC)
4 N Neutral
with the diagram showing NO (1) going to SL on the boiler, COM (2) going to L on the boiler. L (3) and N (4) going to mains feed.
Any advice either on what I need to do to fit this particular thermostat (I haven't bought one yet) or a reasonably cheap wireless receiver which will work with the Baxi 80e would be appreciated. Given where the boiler is installed I have no additional mains points - just the isolating switch for the boiler itself.
I realise this makes me sound like a complete noob but I do have enough competence to wire circuits etc. like this once I know the terminology and what's expected - so yes while "call an electrician" is a valid answer, it's not the one I want to hear.
Currently in a house with a Baxi 80e combi boiler, which presumably at one time was connected to the Honeywell T6360B thermostat.
At present the wire has been severed between the boiler and the thermostat, and the internal link between terminals 1 and 2 on the boiler has been connected hence CH is always on when the fitted mechanical timer is set ON.
Don't want the hassle of ripping out and replacing cables for a wired thermostat so looking at wireless. However, I am a little confused on some (such as the Salus RT500RF) which requires not only the link from the boiler but also its own power supply.
I had hoped to simply fit the live and switched live to terminals 1 and 2 respectively, thinking that the wireless receiver then by nature always has 230VAC power, and of course removing the internal link between terminals 1 and 2. If this isn't the case then I don't have an easy way to introduce the additional L and N the receiver seems to need.
The Salus RT500RF has terminals listed thus:
1 NO Normally Open [N/O]
2 COM Linked Live feed (230V AC heating applications only)
3 L Live feed (230V AC)
4 N Neutral
with the diagram showing NO (1) going to SL on the boiler, COM (2) going to L on the boiler. L (3) and N (4) going to mains feed.
Any advice either on what I need to do to fit this particular thermostat (I haven't bought one yet) or a reasonably cheap wireless receiver which will work with the Baxi 80e would be appreciated. Given where the boiler is installed I have no additional mains points - just the isolating switch for the boiler itself.
I realise this makes me sound like a complete noob but I do have enough competence to wire circuits etc. like this once I know the terminology and what's expected - so yes while "call an electrician" is a valid answer, it's not the one I want to hear.