CLS Sideways

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jh9940

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Hi,

I am constructing a 3m high stud wall where space is tight. Would it be better to use 45mmx45mm studding or to use CLS 38mm x 63mm studding turned "sideways"? (I am assuming that the CLS will be straighter/truer etc)

If CLS "sideways" is an option, does that mean the sole/head plate will be 63mm high from the floorboards? (as opposed to the conventional way of having the wider part of the timber sitting on the floorboards). There will also be a 1.2m x 0.6m rad fixed to the stud after plasterboard has gone up; will either stud size be strong enough?

Many thanks in advance,
Cheers,

jh9940
 
It can be done, but it wont be stiff at all.

Sure itll hold the weight of a rad, but at the mid point, itll move around quite a bit. If a door is slammed in the house itll vibrate.

You would be better using reularised 100 x 50 studwork with 50 x 50 top and bottom.

If you really want it thin, but as stiff as possible, make a torsion box,, which is basically strips of wood, like studwork, then glue plywood each side, 6mm would work on cls laid flat.
 
It can be done and it will be rigid.

The stiffness of any stuff stud wall is determined by secure top and sole plate, well cut tight timbers and noggins. And remember to bond the plasterboard.
 
jh9940 said:
(I am assuming that the CLS will be straighter/truer etc [than 45x45 studwork timer])
Click to expand...

I doubt it. What do others think? I have had some pretty grotty 38x63 CLS.

IIRC, stuffness increases lineraly with the width of a beam but with the cube of of depth. I think 38x63 will be 1.4X stiffer than 45x45 due to the increased width but 1.7X less stiff due to the reduced depth - so 1.2X less stiff overall.

Most of my wall linings were on 45x45ish and were not bad, before I started rebuilding them with more insulation. If you’re worried, add more studs or noggins. For the ultimate solidity, as Notch7 says have a layer of ply (or OSB?) under the plasterboard.
 
endecotp said:
IIRC, stuffness increases lineraly with the width of a beam but with the cube of of depth
Click to expand...
o_O

Lol. Science.

A better equation is that the strength of a stud wall is directly related to the 12.5mm boards screwed either side of it, and the floors and walls screwed around the edges, making it as stiff as JohnD at a Girls Aloud gig.
 
The studwork timber from wickes is normally pretty grotty or twisted/bowed. The merchants like jewsons and travis perkins seem to have a slightly thicker profile and less twists or bows in the wood. You can go in there and setup a trade cash account even if your not in the trade. It entitles you to free delivery too
 
Bond - not adhesive or James, but to lap the boards like you see in a brick wall.
 
29734.jpg


Just bought some of this stuff to use as well as screws - any harm?

Cheers,
jh9940
 
nuzuki said:
The studwork timber from wickes is normally pretty grotty or twisted/bowed. The merchants like jewsons and travis perkins seem to have a slightly thicker profile and less twists or bows in the wood. You can go in there and setup a trade cash account even if your not in the trade. It entitles you to free delivery too
Click to expand...
Sorry i had to quote and have a good laugh at this, the only way you will get straight timber reliably is to pick it yourself.
Jewson is horrid for timber around mine. Roof batons look like they have been ripped apart, cls meets EU banana regulations so does 4x2 PSE. And door linings, you're having a laugh mate, good for hobbit houses though.
 
If jewsons or TP deliver us twisted or bowed CLS we send it back. It rarely happens as they know it will be sent back.
 
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