Connecting Two 12V DC Cables

A

andrewc1

Joined
29 Aug 2011
Messages
13
Reaction score
0
Location
London
Country
United Kingdom
Sorry to post such an elementary question, but the usual internet search tactics aren't leading me anywhere.

I'm thinking of adding some self-adhesive 12V DC LED strip lights to the undersides of shelves in a wardrobe. Each light strip will require about 200mA of current. There is a space at the very top of the wardrobe where I can hide the LED driver.

As I'm terrible at soldering, I intend to clamp the manufacturer's matching strip connector onto each LED strip. The connector comes with a short (10cm) length of trailing cable with bare ends on the other side. That length of cable is insufficient to reach the LED driver, so my question is how should I extend that trailing cable? I have spare cable that I can use, but am stuck on how to connect the two lengths together. I definitely don't want to use any kind of junction box, as that would be visible and detract from the finished look of the wardrobe. It would also be located in a very awkward area.

The most unobtrusive possibility I can think of is to simply twist the two bare ends together and cover with electrical tape. Will that do, or is there a better way?
 
There are neat connectors
1721170113207.png
also you can use shrink sleeve, and wet with solder, or simple crimps
1721170267972.png
and shrink over them, stagger the wires to make it neater. And of course the Wago, I came across them for first time in 1980, but early versions did not have levers.
 
I find the regs around ELV cables inconsistent. You can install them outside prescribed zones but you have to ensure any connections or terminals are fully enclosed.
 
andrewc1 said:
The most unobtrusive possibility I can think of is to simply twist the two bare ends together and cover with electrical tape. Will that do, or is there a better way?
Click to expand...
Can you post pictures of the kit?

It may well be possible to buy a longer lead so you don't have to fart about making joints at all.
 
Would something like this work? Connect to end of strip and pass wires to outside of wardrobe to driver

ignore this I didn't read the post correctly. If the supplied small lengths of cable are long enough to get outside the cabinet then small choc block could be used
 
Last edited:
andrewc1 said:
I'm thinking of adding some self-adhesive 12V DC LED strip lights to the undersides of shelves in a wardrobe. Each light strip will require about 200mA of current. There is a space at the very top of the wardrobe where I can hide the LED driver.

As I'm terrible at soldering, I intend to clamp the manufacturer's matching strip connector onto each LED strip. The connector comes with a short (10cm) length of trailing cable with bare ends on the other side. That length of cable is insufficient to reach the LED driver, so my question is how should I extend that trailing cable? I have spare cable that I can use, but am stuck on how to connect the two lengths together. I definitely don't want to use any kind of junction box, as that would be visible and detract from the finished look of the wardrobe. It would also be located in a very awkward area.

The most unobtrusive possibility I can think of is to simply twist the two bare ends together and cover with electrical tape. Will that do, or is there a better way?
Click to expand...
I cannot believe that you are so "terrible at soldering" that you could not solder after you "simply twist the two bare ends together".

Proceed as follows:-
Obtain
a small Soldering Iron (30 W - or so)
60/40 wire solder
"heat-shrink" tubing - if you do not already have these.

Slip an appropriate length of "heat-shrink" tubing
(at least three times longer than the twisted joint to be)
over each of the conductors of one of the pairs to be joined.

Strip each of the conductors about three times as long as the intended twisted joints and perform the "twisting together" of each of the pairs - leaving the excess wire sticking out horizontally.

Wrap about three turns of the "Wire Solder" around each twisted joint,
Apply the heat of the soldering iron, so that the melted twisted wire solder flows - into the twisted joint.

Allow to cool.

Cut of the excess horizontal "bits" of wire.
"Clamp" with a pair of pliers - to flatten any "sticky out" bits of wire - and solder.

Slip the "heat shrink" over each soldered joint and apply heat to shrink it - using the soldering iron, if nothing else is available.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for your suggestions about the heat shrink, and about staggering the connections.

The manufacturer only makes these connectors: Aurora EN-ST100B and Aurora EN-ST100C. Although the website doesn't state, the former comes with a 10cm trailing lead and the latter with a 20cm lead between the two connectors. Neither is remotely long enough for my needs.

And thanks to Frodo for the soldering instructions. They look much sounder than the way I tried last time. You're tempting me and my hands (with their nearly-pensioner levels of steadiness) to have another go with the soldering iron.
 
andrewc1 said:
You're tempting me and my hands (with their nearly-pensioner levels of steadiness) to have another go with the soldering iron.
Click to expand...
I have the same problem. (Well past "Pensioner" age.)

However, if you rest the "work" on a "bench" and keep in position with a "weighty object" (Pliers etc.),
one can then use two hands to both "use" the soldering iron and "support" its use.
 
Just go to your local motor factors and get a pair of 12v cable joints, they push together and will be jointed within seconds.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top