Continuing second storey brickwork after part first storey complete

acurachris · 21 Jan 2018

Hi

Please see pics included, the utilty area is single storey and the kitchen area will form the ground floor of the two storey extension. The inner blockwork forms the cavity wall between the utility and the kitchen and will carry on to form the inner and outer blockwork for the two storey extension.

My question is: When the outter brickwork is as high as the single storey section needs to be and it now needs to turn to build up the two storey section (see red brick on pic), how do you bridge the cavity?

I hope that makes sense!

Cheers, Chris

^woody^ · 22 Jan 2018

Build in a vertical DPC and cavity tray.

Ask whoever drew the plans why he has not done his job.

acurachris · 22 Jan 2018

^woody^ said:
Build in a vertical DPC and cavity tray.

Yeah, he has said to include vertical dpc's and cavity barriers in general on the building regs. I'm asking more from a structural point of view. When the brick turns to build up the second storey instead of continuing along the first storey wall (because that’s at proper height), the brick will not be supported as it’s going to hang over the cavity.

I'm not sure how to explain what i mean which is why i'm struggling to find the answer i guess! Attached another pic to try and explain what i mean.

There is a chance i'm being completely dumb here!

^woody^ · 22 Jan 2018

I'll do you a sketch when I get home. Pass it on to your half job architect with my compliments.

^woody^ · 22 Jan 2018

The height will depend on your roof and flashing height, as that determines the height of the stepped cavity tray.

acurachris · 22 Jan 2018

Cheers for that. I understand about the cavity tray and DPC, but i'm struggling with the brick i've highlighted below. It has to turn to to bridge the cavity but it wouldn't be wide enough.

acurachris · 22 Jan 2018

^woody^ said:
I'll do you a sketch when I get home. Pass it on to your half job architect with my compliments.

He has actually been pretty awful, i don't think he's a fully qualified architect though. The plans he has drawn are mainly description, not drawings. For the most part that's fine, just a couple of points i'm struggling with. I'm kind of on a tight budget so will be doing some of the work myself and using some trades people where needed, but i need (want to... i'm a control freak really!) to understand the job fully.

Ian H · 22 Jan 2018

That's sketch is RUBBISH!!!!!

Wouldn't you just use a short L-shaped lintel or piece of angle iron over the cavity?

acurachris · 22 Jan 2018

Ian H said:
That's sketch is RUBBISH!!!!!

Wouldn't you just use a short L-shaped lintel or piece of angle iron over the cavity?

Well I kind of wondered about using a lintel but thought that sounded ridiculous for a 10cm gap; I thought i was perhaps missing a simple method of doing this particular thing! Something similar to this?

^woody^ · 23 Jan 2018

Ian H said:
That's sketch is RUBBISH!!!!!

Wouldn't you just use a short L-shaped lintel or piece of angle iron over the cavity?

Are you thinking of a lintel from a Lego set for the cavity.

If the OP can find a 100mm span lintel in the current Catnic, IG, or Keystone catalogue, then I'll pop down and build his extension for free, cut the grass, wash the car, and then come and dig your drain trenches until 2025.

Mike10 · 23 Jan 2018

Could you not just wedge something underneath to hold the brick in place and then when the next course is laid it will hold the back of the brick down and it won't tilt into the cavity and you can remove the wedge. Perhaps a small piece of galvanised metal sticking out from under the brick on the outside to support the end of the over cavity brick on? Alternatively could you not overhang the end block of the course below (which his longer than a brick so will stradle the cavity better) and then lay the bricks on that?
Once the mortar sets it will be held in place by the other bricks around it will it not.

Ian H · 23 Jan 2018

^woody^ said:
come and dig your drain trenches until 2025.

Your hired!!!! Are you anywhere near Nottingham today?

A couple of weeks ago I could have given you an offcut but for £7.40 you could make 2.

stuart45 · 23 Jan 2018

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=w...QsAQIKA&biw=1366&bih=662#imgrc=hzmOXkPfGmtR0M:
If you wanted to be really flash and save woody cutting the lawn. Only problem is the vertical DPC getting in the way.
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=w...QsAQIKA&biw=1366&bih=662#imgrc=8tqGOrG6tQxxVM:

acurachris · 23 Jan 2018

^woody^ said:
Are you thinking of a lintel from a Lego set for the cavity.

If the OP can find a 100mm span lintel in the current Catnic, IG, or Keystone catalogue, then I'll pop down and build his extension for free, cut the grass, wash the car, and then come and dig your drain trenches until 2025.

You shouldn't promise this... my car is really dirty! Now, where are those catalogues!

Mike10 said:
Could you not just wedge something underneath to hold the brick in place and then when the next course is laid it will hold the back of the brick down and it won't tilt into the cavity and you can remove the wedge. Perhaps a small piece of galvanised metal sticking out from under the brick on the outside to support the end of the over cavity brick on?

I suppose it could be something like this, I just thought there may have been a "proper" way to do it.

Mike10 said:
Alternatively could you not overhang the end block of the course below (which his longer than a brick so will stradle the cavity better) and then lay the bricks on that?
Once the mortar sets it will be held in place by the other bricks around it will it not.

A cavity barrier/stop will be at the junction end so the overhanging brick would impede it.

Cheers for your answers everyone.

Ian H · 23 Jan 2018

This from your link looks ideal: