Cooker exhaust hood

[blackcloud]

Hi all

We have moved into a new property and the cooker exhaust hood has failed and only the light comes on.
So we were thinking to buy a new one.
The current one is a exhaust hood that operates on a recirculating system, meaning it filters and recirculates the air rather than venting it outside.

Indesit H 561 IX​

The Indesit H 561 IX is an exhaust hood with a height of 810 millimeters, a width of 600 millimeters, and a depth of 515 millimeters

So we wanted to get a new one that will work. So do we need to make sure that a new one will operate on a recirculating system as I think the current one didn't operate on a extraction though the chimney etc?

We can't do more on the width but can a little on the depth.

Can anyone help with some links to some on argos, wikes etc that would be a suitable replacement please?

We also need to make sure we get one that comes with the carbon filters or they can be easily bought atleast alongside it and anyother essential parts that are needed so we don't find ourselves fitting a fan and not able to operate as it doesn't come with all necessary parts.

Thanks all

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Recirculating hoods, are mostly pointless - they need to extract!

 

[Murdochcat]

External venting is best.

Gas hob or electric ?

 

[blackcloud]

External venting is best.

Gas hob or electric ?

Gas thanks

 

[blackcloud]

Guessing we would need someone to put a hole through the wall for an extractor event.

 

[ericmark]

With gas you have combustion products so no real option, you need a vented cooker hood, so either switch to electric, or vented cooker hood, I cook with a induction electric and to be frank hardly ever turn the fans on, use the lights, but not fans, the hob has auto boil/simmer option so can set it so once it has boiled it auto turns down, so very little steam. Gas has not got the automated controls of electric, it lacks a lot, child locks which are standard with most induction hobs, slower than induction, and can't turn down as low as induction, however you can use them with a wok, the wok's for induction hobs are too heavy.

But main point is burning gas produces water, and of course CO² so no option with gas need a flue on the cooker hob.

 

[jj4091]

Are you sure there is no vent through the wall behind the chimney. I can't really see how that one would act as a recirculating one. Looking at the picture the fan impeller and motor bearings may just want degreasing and lubricating rather than a new assembly.

 

[blackcloud]

Are you sure there is no vent through the wall behind the chimney. I can't really see how that one would act as a recirculating one. Looking at the picture the fan impeller and motor bearings may just want degreasing and lubricating rather than a new assembly.

Thanks. The chimney is almost at the other side of house. Although the boiler is right next to the cooker hood and the boiler is vented outside so maybe the cooker hood is vented with the cooker hood?
How can I check to see if the cooker hood is vented?
How so I degrease and lube the current cooker hood?

 

[Murdochcat]

The boiler can’t share its vent with anything else.

Looking outside is the answer

 

[jj4091]

Thanks. The chimney is almost at the other side of house. Although the boiler is right next to the cooker hood and the boiler is vented outside so maybe the cooker hood is vented with the cooker hood?
How can I check to see if the cooker hood is vented?
How so I degrease and lube the current cooker hood?

Sorry but if you need to ask those questions then I would suggest you perhaps get an electrician to look at it.

 

[Mottie]

Loosen/remove that stainless chimney and post a picture of what is there.

 

[blackcloud]

Thanks. Tried to move the chimney ie the upper part near the top and wiggled a few things around under the hood and all of a sudden the extractor fan started to work again. The noise started and you can feel the air inside of it.
Would love to know if it's connected to anything external out of curiosity but now it's working again I'm scared to move anything on it again

 

[ericmark]

I do see your point, if not broke, don't try to mend it. But any vent must some where go outside. Often there is some sort of flap, my house with fan not running and with fan running and inside one can see the duct going to outside wall, the flaps in centre picture show it is doing as designed and sending air outside and no filters are blocked.

In my case with an induction hob and a fan oven all the cooker hood does is remove smells, electric cookers one hopes will never produce harmful fumes. However this is not the case with gas, yet our last house built around 1978 had a gas point for cooker and fridge, but no fume extractors, and the wall that the cooker gas point was on would be very hard to run duct to outside.

I looked up Part J building regulations, and it was hard to follow,

2.3 Some manufacturers may specify even larger areas of permanently open air vents or omit to specify a rated output (for example in the case of a cooker). In these cases, manufacturers’ installation instructions should be followed subject to any minimum ventilation provisions of this Approved Document.

but an internet hunt for "Why do gas fires require a flue" got the following result

ALL gas-burning appliances need an adequate supply of fresh air to burn properly, and all produce a small amount of the toxic carbon monoxide gas in the combustion products. If the air supply is restricted, the quantity of carbon monoxide produced rises sharply. The smallest sizes of gas-burning appliances, when burning in a normal room, obtain enough air from gaps around doors, windows, and between floorboards, etc. Appliances rated at 7 kW and above need a fixed air vent and flue to work properly. An exception is made for cookers. This is partly because it would be impractical to fit an effective flue, but also because it is reasonable to assume that people do not leave all the burners on full power for any extended period. It is potentially lethal to use your cooker as a gas fire, with the rings on full for an hour or more and the doors and windows closed. Deaths caused by carbon monoxide poisoning from faulty gas installations occur every winter, but I know of none from a cooker in a house.

With this in mind I would say with a gas cooker you do want a vented cooker hood. Part J does talk about permanently open vents, when there is no flue for a cooker and lists loads of compliance numbers as to what cookers can be used without a flue of some sort.

Personally gas is not controllable enough, and much slower than using an induction hob, and fan ovens etc, and does not have the safety features of electric, including automatic switch off after a set time, I suspect if one is use to gas one will treat it with the respect it needs, the problem is if use to electric one tends to not pay it the same attention, the times I have gone into the kitchen and realised the hob is still on I have lost count of, it does auto switch off so not harm, but if my wife did the same with the gas cooker in the caravan then a very different story.

Back in 1981 we did consider a gas cooker, I told wife she could have any cooker she wanted, and she was looking at a cannon with a microwave built into the oven, it was £1000 back then, but she looked at the fingers that the pan sat on, and decided too easy for our children to knock off a pan, so got a Belling ceramic hob cooker for half that price, I breathed a sigh of relief, and now on our third Belling cooker, first one around 1974 this one now about 25 year old, with induction hob, about time for another, but would not entertain gas, oil, or solid fuel, would always use electric, as far easier to control.