cutting oak plinth

ETAF said:
yes the pan i put in cloakroom had 4 going vertically - but these comfort height pans have 2 horizontally into a plastic thing
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If you are screwing into the oak you will need either brass or stainless steel screws, they will need to be piloted, and for good measure it is advisable to drive steel screws in first, remove them then hand screw your finish screws in (stainless and brass snap remarkably easily)
 
"Aged"? You mean dried. If your house is centrally heated you really do need to look at kiln dried - air dried at 16% MC is not going to work - you are looking for 10 to 12% MC (moisture cintent)

Thanks Quote Quote
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Thanks - i will ask if Kiln dried

The router bit kit from trend does include Trimmer guided cutters 25mm bits - i think the biggest is a 3/4 (19mm dia x 25mm length ) - not sure where the guide is top or bottom, most are bottom guides
www.trend-uk.com

SET/SS35X1/2TC - 35 piece starter cutter set

35 piece starter cutter set
www.trend-uk.com www.trend-uk.com

Thanks for all the replies and help
 
If you are screwing into the oak you will need either brass or stainless steel screws, they will need to be piloted, and for good measure it is advisable to drive steel screws in first, remove them then hand screw your finish screws in (stainless and brass snap remarkably easily)
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Brilliant thanks for the tips

Just sent some emails off to sme local carpenters that are on an industrial/business park, hopefully have a workshop, quite a few the location is just a house
thanks for the idea
 
ETAF said:
The router bit kit from trend does include Trimmer guided cutters 25mm bits - i think the biggest is a 3/4 (19mm dia x 25mm length ) - not sure where the guide is top or bottom, most are bottom guides
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It will be a bottom bearing - and to use a bottom bearing bit (with the template attached on the underside of the workpiece) you'll need a 50mm high cutter. So 25mm is not long enough.

ETAF said:
Just sent some emails off to sme local carpenters that are on an industrial/business park, hopefully have a workshop, quite a few the location is just a house
thanks for the idea
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There's no reason why you couldn't template this job in 6mm plywood, or you could just loan them the pan for a day whilst they make-up a template themselves
 
or you could just loan them the pan for a day whilst they make-up a template themselves
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i have asked if i could do that on the enquiry

i was watching the cricket and then realised its 44mm thick dah!!!!!
I do have a worktop bit - 63mm - BUT not guided
I'll have to buy one , if i'm going to have a go - wait to see what other quotes I get for the material...
 
ETAF said:
I do have a worktop bit - 63mm - BUT not guided
I'll have to buy one , if i'm going to have a go - wait to see what other quotes I get for the material...
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You have the links -and Wealden are a very good company to deal with that supplies good products. You'll also need a 12in disc sander and some T244Ds or T344Ds if you DIY.
 
you can nibble into a [near curve] with a table saw and jig or a chopsaw and many many facets and finish with a router or belt sander
to be honest making the wood to an accurate profile may come unstuck as porcelain bogs are seldom uniform
 
update from https://www.britishhardwoods.co.uk/ they will have to join, so a window board joined - however, the customer service rep on the phone did say oak was not a good idea, as you wont be able to clean with any harsh cleaners as the wood would burn, same as ammonia from any pee will burn the wood and mark. - but i thought i would seal it anyway - so not 1005 certain on this

its just an edge on show - but will need to discuss with otherhalf - so not a great conversation, as she is only just getting used to the idea of a plinth anyway

I'm now wondering if it can be just a hollow out plinth around the edge and across the back -
 
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ETAF said:
... the customer service rep on the phone did say oak was not a good idea, as you wont be able to clean with any harsh cleaners as the wood would burn, same as ammonia from any pee will burn the wood and mark. - but i thought i would seal it anyway - so not 1005 certain on this
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I sort of said that before - and no matter how well you seal the oak it will end up stained over time. It's the nature of the location
ETAF said:
I'm now wondering if it can be just a hollow out plinth around the edge and across the back -
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No reason why that wouldn't work, and it would be cheaper.
 
I sort of said that before - and no matter how well you seal the oak it will end up stained over time. It's the nature of the location
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Sorry i missed that info - she is pretty determined on the oak, so has been warned
No reason why that wouldn't work, and it would be cheaper.
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I'll see if i can make a template like that, probably thursday ish - today I'm reconstructing the cabinet for the raised cistern and trying to make it all solid again

thanks again for all the advice and help
 
well, having let her think about this overnight and this morning - She is now thinking of ordinary wood -painted black - Black is a thing at the moment, over last few years and have a lot of black trim and handles in bathroom
i add a different post - if i have questions - rather than continue here

But thanks very much to everyone for the answers , this info did help change the other halfs mind
 
What about rough (undercutting) a platform from any old timber and then using black silicone with a profiling tool. No easy but very doable.
 
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