cutting oak plinth

any examples of a profiling tool - going to be 45mm wide

I may have a big problem with Silicone, its not been very good in any of our bathrooms , and the otherhalf avoids where ever possible, no idea what was used , i suspect screwfix stuff, I have used CT1 around a kitchen worktop in the past and it was very good - now they have BT1 special for bathroom/wetroom etc, i purchased a while back , when they had a demo in toolstation 1st week it was being introduced to them , i planned to redo all the bathroom shower tray etc
www.ct1.com

BT1 – New TRIBRID Technology for Bathrooms - CT1

BT1 is based on our revolutionary TRIBRID® Technology! We have created a unique product upon which bacteria/microbes cannot survive, making it easier to maintain a more hygienic surface which is free of solvents and isocyanates.
www.ct1.com www.ct1.com

no idea if they do black
 
ETAF said:
any examples of a profiling tool - going to be 45mm wide

I may have a big problem with Silicone, its not been very good in any of our bathrooms , no idea what was used , i suspect screwfix stuff, I have used CT1 around a kitchen worktop in the past and it was very good - now they have BT1 special for bathroom/wetroom etc, i purchased a while back , when they had a demo in toolstation 1st week it was being introduced to them , i planned to redo all the bathroom shower tray etc
www.ct1.com

BT1 – New TRIBRID Technology for Bathrooms - CT1

BT1 is based on our revolutionary TRIBRID® Technology! We have created a unique product upon which bacteria/microbes cannot survive, making it easier to maintain a more hygienic surface which is free of solvents and isocyanates.
www.ct1.com www.ct1.com

no idea if they do black
Click to expand...


I think the Fuji/Cramer (blue) profiling tools are (from memory) over 50mm.

I have previously purchased other brands of silicone profiles that were in excess of 70mm. They weren't great though. You can use washing up liquid as a release agent and make you own profiles out of other materials. I used to know guys who used to use wooden dowels.

I would say go for black silicone rather than black CT1. CT! is much more sticky than silicone and more difficult to smooth (you can however use white spirit as the release agent).

If you go for silicone, buy some decorator's wipes, You can wrap them over a sharp filling knife to clean up any slops where the silicone meets the floor.
 
big-all said:
you can nibble into a [near curve] with a table saw and jig or a chopsaw and many many facets and finish with a router or belt sander
to be honest making the wood to an accurate profile may come unstuck as porcelain bogs are seldom uniform
Click to expand...
It won't work, B-A. It is highly probable that you'll end up with a dog's dinner of faceted surfaces (try applying a belt sander multiple times at a consistent angle, on a non-flat/regular surface and you'll soon see why it won't work). The technique I proposed is one I learned from a Shaker box maker of all people, but is also used by pattern makers
 
I am starting to wonder it this job might not be better done by casting in resin or fibreglass (bonded onto a softwood frame or former for rigidity). The downside is that you still need to make an accurate template piece from which to make your casting mould (using the technique I detailed above), but making that template out of softwood is going to be a lot cheaper and a lot easier than doing it in oak. You'll still need a 12in disc sander with a tilting table, though

Having thought about it, would a reversal of direction not look better, i.e. the base instead of sloping inwards, slopes outwards? This mighty be easier to achieve by making up a template, using a straight cutter and a guide bush to make-up an oversize copy of the template, drilling through three or four registration holes (say 8mm), then fixing the pair together with softwood formers (sing the registration holes to keep them together in the same relative position, and finally filling in round the edges with 2-pack filler smoothed-out with a pallette knife then sanded. Just a thought
 
Thanks again for the idea
Not doing in oak anymore - sorry , i did mention in post 29 - she has had a change of opinion, happens quite often, if explained why something is difficult , she tend to reject immediately , then a few hours later comes round, i just have to let the ideas settle for a while and not react

Having thought about it, would a reversal of direction not look better,
Click to expand...
She is now happy for it to be straight down , having explained the difficulty to profile , and also I was not happy with it sitting on such a tapered edge.
this job might not be better done by casting in resin or fibreglass
Click to expand...
I think that would be outside my skill set - to be honest

Its now a softwood frame - I can have a few goes.

As seen in the photo, I have some 2x2, currently sitting on, which i may use - hence the 44mm height (which is the finished size of the wood)

Probably a bit across the back , and then another along each side and one across the front -
I'm not sure on best way to join the front piece , I have not been great at joints in the past .....

I'm out all day today (Wednesday) , so tomorrow (Thursday) I will make a template out of some hardboard I have and see how accurate i can get that - I also have some 3mm ply - so i may use that instead of the hardboard.

then use that as a guide for a router bit - which i will have to buy - as you recommended https://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Down_Shear_Trim_23.html unless i need something different now

I also have some treated 4x2 left over from a fence post job - seems to be planned , so i may try this - only problem maybe painting it black, probably using weathershield paint which i have
 
just spoke to wealden tools - brilliant company - gave me a lot of advice for other bits to consider
but in the end i went for the one suggested by jobandknock - Thank you so much for that

Down Shear Trim

www.wealdentool.com www.wealdentool.com
hopefully it will arrive Monday ..... Saturday service was quite expensive and he said often does not arrive till monday anyway

so now off to the timber yard / Wickes ( i quite the quality of wood there) and see what i can get to make up a nice frame

took the toilet out and full of silicon on a flexible waste pipe - spent most of yesterday - just cleaning the sides and waste connector on the pan up - had to use wd40 to soften it !!!!!!
 
Thanks for all the replies

As i mentioned in previous post we are now doing in softwood and painting black
I got some soft wood yesterday - so now going to make a template of the bottom of the pan

I was speaking to the very helpful guy at Wealdentool and he said, get a cheap hot glue gun to hold the template on, I had seen that being done only that morning on youtube, i was thinking of double sided tape and maybe loss head nails - BUT
I got the cheap Bosch gun from screwfix yesterday https://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-pkp18e-electric-glue-gun-240v/25512
Now I need to make up the frame and the template, bit its 27C already in the garden in shade !!!!!!! - so the garage will probably be well into the 30's

I will probably post a separate thread about , best way of cutting this thing , if i get stuck
 
If it isn't on a visible surface the hot melt glue tacking solution is faster and easier than any other approach on one-off jobs like this. Remember to trim your blank to within a few millimeters of the template - this will mean that your router doesn't get as hot when making the cut (because it is having to do less work), neither does the cutter (meaning less chance of scorching plus longer cutter life) and is less work for you, too
 
Thanks JobAndKnock - yep i will trim it right back to a few mm - probably with the Circ-Saw I have - which will cut 55mm
thanks for the confirmation of the hotglue solution - none of the top or bottom will be seen, just the edge
Hopefully the Router bit will give a clean cut , for painting - or i may need to sand back a bit

Gave up after an hour in the garage this morning far to hot - outside was 29.5c in shade
just working out the frame using a rough hardboard template
I may dowel the bits together - as i have a dowel jig and worked that out today

whats hot glue like for using to stick the wood together, I was going to use D4 which i have used in the past OK - but now i have the hot glue ?

the frame will be mad from 4 pieces 45x95
 
Hot glue is OK for "craft" work, sticking lightweight stuff together, but it does tend to cause slightly gappy joints in wood. I would be wary of using it for heavier structural tasks as I doubt it has anywhere near the strength of wood glues

BTW, have you tried running the bearing of your cutter against the hardboard yet? I've always tended to use thicker MDF or plywood (6mm) for templates because I find 3mm thick material a bit awkward to run the bearings of some cutters against
 
JobAndKnock said:
have you tried running the bearing of your cutter against the hardboard yet? I've always tended to use thicker MDF or plywood (6mm) for templates because I find 3mm thick material a bit awkward to run the bearings of some cutters against
Click to expand...
thanks for that , i have not yet made the template, i decided against the hardboard, was not sure anyway , but having cut out a rough template to use as a guide for the frame , as i suspected not any good really.

i do have some 6mm (measures 5.5 on veneer) and 9mm ply - I'll use the 6mm as thats what you found works OK. I would like to get this right 1st time.

I will use the D4 glue i have and clamp up , I didn't think the hot glue would be any good - but lots on the web about it used for wood, so thanks for confirming that its not really suitable for this job

fingers crossed the bit shows up tomorrow - not that i can do much now this week.

Thanks again,
 
ETAF said:
I will use the D4 glue i have and clamp up , I didn't think the hot glue would be any good - but lots on the web about it used for wood, so thanks for confirming that its not really suitable for this job
Click to expand...
It's more scepticism on my part. I have never come across a joinery manufacturer who uses hot melt for structural joints (they use plenty of it for joints that don't require much strength and where its' gap filling characteristics are useful, e.g. door lippings, furniture edge banding, etc) - that may be a strength issue or it may just be down to cost, but I tend to be a bit risk averse on the grounds that I don't want to be revisiting jobs 6 months or a year down the line at my own expense whereas wood glues are a known quantity, so to speak
 
but I tend to be a bit risk averse on the grounds that I don't want to be revisiting jobs 6 months or a year down the line at my own expense whereas wood glues are a known quantity, so to speak
Click to expand...
thanks - i'll go with your experience , its been good in the past , I dont want to see a problem in the bathroom in future after doing this. Plus i have always used glue and have the D4 anyway, which has been great for other jobs and goes off in 10mins , so things i needed done quickly have worked - although the frame i will leave overnight anyway

it has been a disappointment for the otherhalf having spent a lot (we consider it a lot) on the bathroom.
 
Bit arrived this morning
I have a table i printed out for speeds and router diameter -

<25mm dia - which this is - approx <19mm from diagram
Then thats a setting 5 on my dewalt 625 router max speed 20,000
the router bit has max speed 24,000 - so within that rating

would you use on max setting ? as per my table speed guide suggests

5 = 20,000 < 25mm dia
4 = 18,000
3 = 16,000
2 = 12,000
1 = 8,000 > 75mm dia

Smaller dia higher speeds
 
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