cutting oak plinth

[Deleted member 174758]

I'd probably go a little bit slower than max - just run it and see how well it cuts and adjust the speed down a wee bit if it feels unbalanced (vibration) or you get any signs of scorching.

 

[ETAF]

thanks - i have some test pieces i can play with

frame all made dowel and glued up - just in clamps now - will see what i get tomorrow - grandchildren arriving tonight for a few days - so not sure how far i will get now

 

[big-all]

thanks - i have some test pieces i can play with

frame all made dowel and glued up - just in clamps now - will see what i get tomorrow - grandchildren arriving tonight for a few days - so not sure how far i will get now

do you mean as a test crew for your plinth

 

[ETAF]

- grandchildren will be the test crew , next visit i suspect , hopefully done by then

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Seal it well...

 

[ETAF]

plinth now cut - and just needs rubbing down, will use some PVA to seal - probably 1:1 , and then some sort of paint the other half wants to use and covers anything apparently, she has some antherite which matches the tiles - not going to argue .....
WIP
but thought i would post

Glue gun worked really well to take the 6mm plywood
Router bit was excellent - very easy to do and cut - cut most of the access off with a circular saw

Will post again when its all finished

But a big thankyou JobAndKnock for all the advice and support - gave me the confidence to get on with it

 

[Deleted member 174758]

plinth now cut - and just needs rubbing down, will use some PVA to seal - probably 1:1

Personally, I think you'd be better off with a couple if coats of oil-based primer. PVA has its uses, but I've always been wary of using it to seal anything at floor level where it is more likely to get wet and retain moisture, although someone like @opps might be better placed to advise (and it might give him a second opportunity to tell me I'm... wrong ). I'd also pay attention to the top and bottom surfaces - the more protection the better.

but thought i would posttAl

Always nice to see some WIP - I for one look forward to seeing the end result. I hope that SWMBO/LOYL will be suitably impressed when you are finished. Got to be worth a few brownie points, methinks

 

[ETAF]

oil-based primer.

i'll see what primer we have , i think we have some exterior stuff , i used recently - not sure if oil based

 

[Deleted member 174758]

BLO (boiled linseed oil) also works, if you have any. After all, it is basically what oil-based paints were originally formulated with in "ye olden tymes" (or a couple of years before "I were a lad", so a long time before "I were in me prime")

 

[ETAF]

BLO (boiled linseed oil)

Yep have loads of that - i replaced all the thresholds in the hall , and double coated those - so have at least 3/4-1/2 a tin left over
brilliant - thats easy
is that better than PVA then ?

 

[Deleted member 174758]

I think so, yes. Sand off with fine paper between coats and after the last coat

I have put it on the tops and bottoms if exterior fire doors in the past and it makes quite a difference to durability. Useful to have some in the van

To anyone reading this in the future - after using BLO any contaminated cloths must be opened out and left to dry outside before you throw them away. BLO dries exothermically (i.e it gets hot) and screwed up and thrown away in a dustbin cloths imoregnated with BLO can get hot enough to start a fire

 

[opps]

I think so, yes. Sand off with fine paper between coats and after the last coat

I have put it on the tops and bottoms if exterior fire doors in the past and it makes quite a difference to durability. Useful to have some in the van

To anyone reading this in the future - after using BLO any contaminated cloths must be opened out and left to dry outside before you throw them away. BLO dries exothermically (i.e it gets hot) and screwed up and thrown away in a dustbin cloths imoregnated with BLO can get hot enough to start a fire

BLO sounds like a better idea than PVA.

I tend to fold my rags (read: lint free paper) and then soak them with water before putting them in the bin. On reflection. I am not sure that does little more than delay the drying process, then again, they are in a sealed bin with a lid, which would massively reduce the curing dying process any way.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

I always found it interesting that if you visited litho printing shops, they invariably had fire-proof steel containers for their cleaning rags. Who knew that litho printing ink contained boiled linseed oil?

 

[ETAF]

all finished and no leaks - now works properly , and toilet paper goes down on the first flush

Thanks very much for all the help , advice and support, much appreciated
@JobAndKnock - Thanks so much for staying with the thread throughout - helped tremendously - gave me confidence and tools to do the job - with great explanations

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Nice one!