Cutting tiles and adhesive slow to set

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Derbylad

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In the past I have used a wet cutter but I have just invested in a Big Clink dry cutter. I’m cutting 600mm x 300mm ceramic tiles. On the short edge they cut fine but on the longer edge I’m having difficulty. The tiles snap neatly at the top but not at the bottom. Any tips or thoughts as to if or what I’m doing wrong?
I’m also fixing the tiles with Mapei D2 but it seems to be taking days to cure. It’s a new build with no heating. I’m using a size 10 notched trowel and dragging it across the wall at about 45 degrees giving around a 3mm bed
Is this normal?

Thanks all
 

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I'm not a pro tiler, but I've done loads of tiling. In my experience the very hard modern, large format porcelain tiles (as opposed to glazed tiles on a softer base) are very difficult to cut reliably with a snap cutter. Maybe the pros can do it with pro gear, but I've never had 100% success so I do all mine wet now - slower but reliable.

Also, the tub adhesives rely on evaporation to dry, and behind non-porous tiles it takes an age for this adhesive to set. I always use cement based powder adhesive now which sets by chemical reaction once mixed with water.
 
Hi MrRusty, thank you for the quick reply. Any recommendations for cement based powder adhesive to use in a shower area?
 
I too have the Big Clinker.

I initially purchased it for 600 by 600 porcelain tiles. Every cut had a bend at the same point. I spoke to the makers (QED), they recommended that I return it to screwfix for a replacement. The replacement was bang on cut wise.

Appropos @mrrusty 's post, tubs dry via exporation. The powder based adhesives have cement with speeds up the curing process.
 
When trying to cut small sections off large format tiles I score them with the tile cutter and then grip the small part of the tile in the jaws of the workmate and push the larger part with both hands to make it snap. As long as the snap line is about level with the top of the workmate that almost always produces a clean break.
 
For long edge cuts I find it hit and miss on my rubi manual cutter so tend to cut with the grinder and a decent cutting disc. This is the best disc I've used and very reasonably priced, very durable too even with porcelain:

www.toolstation.com

Abracs Tile & Porcelain Diamond Blade

10mm Segment height. For ceramic and porcelain tile cutting. Clean cut. For wet or dry cutting.Expert quality blade designed with X-Tech Cutting technology for porcelain cutting as well as a range of tile and ceramic cutting applications. The continuous X-Tech rim blade offers a combination of...
www.toolstation.com www.toolstation.com

I use tilemaster powder adhesive from my local tile specialist. Never had a problem with it and available in a variety of bucket/set times.
 
I
ktuludays said:
For long edge cuts I find it hit and miss on my rubi manual cutter so tend to cut with the grinder and a decent cutting disc. This is the best disc I've used and very reasonably priced, very durable too even with porcelain:

www.toolstation.com

Abracs Tile & Porcelain Diamond Blade

10mm Segment height. For ceramic and porcelain tile cutting. Clean cut. For wet or dry cutting.Expert quality blade designed with X-Tech Cutting technology for porcelain cutting as well as a range of tile and ceramic cutting applications. The continuous X-Tech rim blade offers a combination of...
www.toolstation.com www.toolstation.com
Click to expand...
I have an angle grinder but have never considered it for cutting tiles. Is it not difficult to keep a straight line!? I’ll have to give it a go
 
Derbylad said:
I

I have an angle grinder but have never considered it for cutting tiles. Is it not difficult to keep a straight line!? I’ll have to give it a go
Click to expand...

Angle grinders work well but will be very dusty. A few years ago I used one with floor and wall tiles in a bathroom. It is a lot slower than a score and snap cutter. A wet bed cutter will be dust free but will take about the same amount of time as an angle grinder.
 
Derbylad said:
I

I have an angle grinder but have never considered it for cutting tiles. Is it not difficult to keep a straight line!? I’ll have to give it a go
Click to expand...
I find it quite easy tbh to keep it straight. Remember all your cuts should be into trim or a corner or down to floor anyway so tend to be hidden
 
The adhesive for porcelain tiles is specific.
Check your adhesive instructions and make sure is suitable for porcelain.
I use mapei or bal.
 
DIYer
I used one of those Abracs discs on my old angle grinder to cut tiles.
Most of it free hand but some with a straight edge as a guide.
Worked well. Very dusty though. Did the cuts outside.
 
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