Damp kitchen floor - liquid dpm or underlay?

[stev]

Kitchen is in a lean to, with no damp proof membrane fitted. Old laminate flooring is coming up, and underneath the laminate the underlay is very damp.

I wanted to fit LVT flooring or self adhesive vinyl tiles. Should I use a liquid dpm underneath this, or is underlay with a vapour barrier just as good? Also, are there any potential negative consequences to doing either option, like pushing damp into the walls etc?

 

[Diver Fred]

What is under the underlay?

 

[stev]

What is under the underlay?

Sorry, should have said, it's a concrete floor

 

[Diver Fred]

Two heavy coats of liquid DPM including up the walls to one course above the wall damp proof layer.

 

[stev]

Two heavy coats of liquid DPM including up the walls to one course above the wall damp proof layer.

Is that better than underlay with vapour barrier, or should be done as well as?

 

[crazydaze]

You need a proper two coat liquid DPM application, have a look at something like FBall F77

Anything else is a hopeful bodge, especially if you intend to lay LVT glue down (preferable) or click system (needs to be laid with the same prep as the glue down for a correct installation)

 

[foxhole]

Likely leaks or spills have caused damp , laminate not suitable for kitchens.

 

[Eccles]

I agree with foxhole all of my many kitchens over the years have always been "floored" with tiles or vinyl. You have to realise that laminate is really just thick dense cardboard with a plastic coating and soon deteriorates if it gets damp. I agree with others that the floor and possibly the outside wall needs "tanking" with suitable material, I used two coats of an Everbild product a few years. Sorry can't recall what it was called.

 

[stev]

You need a proper two coat liquid DPM application, have a look at something like FBall F77

Anything else is a hopeful bodge, especially if you intend to lay LVT glue down (preferable) or click system (needs to be laid with the same prep as the glue down for a correct installation)

Thanks, I was thinking of using this: https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Bit...jpCYzpSeKUD0QHXCwJwaAuXvEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Then vapour barrier underlay and then lvt click system, would that be ok? Why do you recommend glue down over click?

 

[crazydaze]

To successfully install click LVT you’ll need to self levelling latex screed over the Liquid DPM, so something like F-Ball F77 or F78 over the concrete and then F-Ball 1200 Stop Gap Noisture Tooerant Screed over the top.

If you go down the Wickes product route make sure you have a moisture tolerant self levelling latex that’s compatable with the Wickes DPM and relevant primers.

 

[stev]

To successfully install click LVT you’ll need to self levelling latex screed over the Liquid DPM, so something like F-Ball F77 or F78 over the concrete and then F-Ball 1200 Stop Gap Noisture Tooerant Screed over the top.

If you go down the Wickes product route make sure you have a moisture tolerant self levelling latex that’s compatable with the Wickes DPM and relevant primers.

Thanks, would I then need an underlay on top of the latex screed as well?

 

[crazydaze]

That depends on the specification of the click LVT you are laying, some require a seperate specialist LVT underlay - that are usually thin but very dense - or some have the underlay inbuilt onto the back of the plank.