Danfoss FP7898/FP715 to Hive Replacement

[Zurg]

Hey,
Looking for some advice with fitting hive, replacing my Danfoss FP7898/FP715.

I’ve pulled the programmer off and looked at the wiring and each connector has cables in apart from ports 1 and 2.
I have a boiler with separate water tank so require the 2 channel hive.
I’ve attached the photo of what it looks like. I was expecting each port to be connected.
Any obvious idea on how to reconfigure this for use with hive?
Also included image of the back of the Danfoss programmer.
Some one did say that I could literally just clip the hive hub on and it will work but I’m skeptical.

also when it comes to disconnecting the thermostat as it will no longer be required, is it just a case of chocing the cable ends and poking in the wall and forget ?

Thanks in advance for the help!

Thanks!

 

[stem]

They are identical units the terminal numbers and descriptions match like for like,

You only need the wires that are there now. Nothing changes wiring wise, so terminals 1 & 2 will remain vacant with Hive. As you say, you need the dual channel version of Hive, and you can indeed just swap them over.

Any existing room thermostat will need putting on its maximum setting and leaving there, otherwise it will interfere with the operation of the Hive.

If you want to remove the old stat a wiring modification will need to be made, it can't just be disconnected, if it were the heating won't work. Post back a photo of the room thermostat and its connections if you need any more help.

 

[Zurg]

Thanks for your response!

I’ll be giving this a go today seeing as it’s potentially not as bad as expected then.

Ideally I’d like to remove the current old thermostat and poke wires into the wall and put hive thermostat over in its place.
Here is the wiring setup of the thermostat. I think it’s a danfoss ret230p.
My assumption is to join what would be L and ON but but in this I guess it’s be the cables in 1 and 3. Combine those together in a block and then N on its own?

 

[stem]

You have a couple of options.

The easiest way to disconnect the thermostat is to transfer the wires that are in it into a junction box.

The wires in the terminals I've circled below are the 'Live' (brown circle) and 'Neutral' (blue circle)

They should be put into separate terminals inside the junction box.

The brown loop of wire between the two sets of terminals is removed.

That will leave you with a black wire with a brown sleeve on it in terminal 1. This is the 'Switched Live' and should be put in the same terminal in the junction box as the 'Live' brown wire.

The professional way to remove the thermostat is:

1. Trace the wires from the thermostat back to where they originate from.

2. When you find their origin note where the Live wire (brown) and Switched Live wire (black) are connected.

3. Remove all of the the wires that go to the thermostat and the old thermostat itself.

4. Then join together the terminals where you have just removed the Live wire (brown) and Switched live wire (black) from so that the two terminals are electrically connected. You may be able to use the brown loop removed from the thermostat for this.

 

[Zurg]

Thanks once again!
Okay so Live and ‘switched live’ into the same choc and neutral on its own.

how come there currently is a live jump between the two terminals?

 

[stem]

Okay so Live and ‘switched live’ into the same choc and neutral on its own.

That's the idea

Note: It should be a properly insulated junction box and not exposed terminals. Wiring regulations require visibility so that it is possible to see and know where live cables are installed, which prevents someone inadvertently drilling a hole through one or knocking a picture hook in it.

how come there currently is a live jump between the two terminals?

Whilst the thermostat requires 230V power for it to operate, it also contains a 'voltage free' switch connected between terminals 1 & 3. This is provided because some boilers use 24v for control purposes, and so it must not be connected to the mains voltage. Other systems like yours do require the thermostat to switch 230V, therefore one side of the switch has to be connected to the 230V 'Live' to give it something to switch. Hence the loop between the thermostat 'Live' terminal and one side of the switch.

 

[Zurg]

All now sorted. Thanks Stem for your help!