Dirty/moving toilet water

Joined
23 Sep 2010
Messages
202
Reaction score
2
Country
United Kingdom
Recently moved house and found that the downstairs toilet water becomes dirty (DISCOLOURED) - not through use! The water looks as though a piece of waste has slowly "dissolved".

  • We have two toilets (upstairs and downstairs) which are connected to the same 5inch(?) soil pipe.
  • The downstairs toilet is connected to a branch which also has the downstairs shower connected to it.
  • The toilet soil pipe was a gentle run/slope from the toilet to a 90deg elbow then to the branch (approx 1 metre away).
  • Thinking someone is "blocking" the toilet neither my wife or I have used the toilet but find the dirty water appears.
  • When flushed the water is initially clear.
Tonight, I have ran the downstairs shower to see if the dirty water appeared in the toilet. It did not, although what I noticed was the water moves slightly - NO GLUGGING NOISE. I placed a piece of toilet paper in the water and it was clearly moving back and forth. At no time while the shower was running did the water discolour.
  • Stopping the shower, saw the water stop moving (after a short wait).
  • There was no sign of dirty water until I returned approx 30mins later - during which time no used either toilet.
I am now thinking that the soil pipe drain is trying to draw air via the toilet (while the shower water drains). My novice thinking is that this creates a push/pull motion that may actual pump a little dirty water back.

Does this seem feasible? Is the solution to change the 90deg bend (between the toilet and soil pipe branch) with a T, extend the pipe and add a breather? My thinking is this will allow air in (without the smell!)
 
Had another look later tonight and noticed water seems to move/bob when shower is not in use.

It is wet and windy inside so could this be weather related? Top of soil-pipe juts out about guttering and has a slotted vent type cap on it. Could it be wind? (The weather type!!)

How do we resolve?
 
Hi Foxhole.

No, full pipe work is plastic. Both bathroom suites are less than 18 months old.
 
Last edited:
If the top of the stack is ventilated, then I think it unlikely ventilation is the issue. Air passing over the top of the vent pipe will cause a negative pressure in the system, and possibly cause the water in the pans to move slightly in windier conditions. My initial suspicion is you may have a blockage downstream, which is causing the water movement, and possibly the discolouration of the water.
 
The waste pipe runs slightly down from the toilet to the 90 deg elbow gradually down (horizontally) to the soil pipe branch.

What I find strange is that for the dirty water to reach the toilet's u-bend then surely the waste pipe would be partially full of water and the toilet water level would raise when flushed or have already risen/flooded. As it is the level remains consistent with the height of the bottom edge of the toilet waste - which indicates there is no restriction.

For reference, last night I emptied several buckets of water down the toilet (in quick succession) and the water level never showed any signs of raising. The water, once "flushed" always appeared clean (so the flushed water couldn't be immediately mixing with dirty water). That said, later that evening the discoloured water was appearing.
 
I think only option at the moment is to remove the pan, and see whats going on. Possibly some crud stuck in the outlet.
 
Hi,

Home and checked toilet fitment. Four fixings screws (easily removed) but pan seems firmly silicones to the floor. :o(

Considering removing the 90 deg elbow from outside - can then inspect.

I have seen I can buy a replacement that had an access cap on the bend. Is this a good idea? Provides access but is this a future crud trap?

Maybe a possibility is an access cap on the run between the elbow and branch?
 
Hi,



I have seen I can buy a replacement that had an access cap on the bend. Is this a good idea? Provides access but is this a future crud trap?
No crud trap - the inside is a shaped plug;)
 
Access on the bend is probably a better idea, helps to see in both directions along the pipe if problems arise. Even better when external, at least any mess created can be hosed down fairly easily. Stanley knife should (used carefully!!!) cut through the silicone to allow pan to be removed.
 
Last question (so to cover all bases). Is it possible to add a access cap to an existing bend? Something like the strap-on bosses maybe? Although I've only seen these on a straight run.
 
Back
Top