Dishwasher Candy CDI 1010 problem

[Sebastian Demian]

Hello Everyone,

I'm new with all of this, my Candy CDI 1010 dishwasher was not working for some years and I started this week to check on it and find out that my heating element was not working, and the safety pressure switch also was burned, I had replaced them, and started the machine and surprise my mains filter/suppressor had blown... after that I also find out that the safety pressure switch also had burned (again). Any idea what the problem can be? The heating element, it's fine, but a wire is connected from the safety pressure switch with the heating element and that part is melted where is connected with the switch, I think it's the thermostat or a faulty control board. I'm not sure, but I think that the heating element had reached too high temperature and burned the switch (second time). But I don't understand why the mains filter/ suppressor burned (the first time, it didn't burn because the heating element got broken, maybe it was faulty from the start, but now it had melted, to speak the truth I didn't start the machine before I started to check what the problem was, the dishwasher didn't work properly maybe 5 years and was on standby). I let the dishwasher after the blow still go to see what will happen and after the end of the washing program it heated the inside, but I had a lot of water in it. Tomorrow I will check the thermostat, control board and the draining installation, when I started the machine once it drained the water out, but after that I think the washing cycles got stuck something like that... after that I think was the blow, not sure.

 

[JohnD]

I wonder if it had a water leak that caused numerous short circuits. And perhaps poor fusing and no RCD on the supply.

I presume you're tinkering with it as a hobby? Where I live, good quality dishwashers such as Bosch, used but with plenty of life in them, can be picked up for a few pounds, or free, from people refitting their kitchen and buying new appliances. It saves the owner paying for disposal or humping them to the tip.

You need a hatchback car, or bigger, and two men, to collect them.

 

[Sebastian Demian]

Hello,

It was the thermostat, it didn't work properly and so the whole dishwasher was overheated, the glue from the duct tape what was wrapped over the wires was white and sticky, also in the circulation pump motor had I wire burned that was connected to the thermal protection fuse (this was intact, just the wire where it was welded burned, I welded it back (everything was fine, I measure it also with a multimeter, there was no other issue with the motor)), I also changed the mains suppressor (that was burned), the safety pressure switch I fixed it, it was melted, so I melted it back to the same position before melting (everything works fine, like new but ugly). I also check the electronic control module, no visible issue, it was a little bit heated, but it looks fine (no components burned), no other burned wires no short circuit in the dishwasher, no water leak. After I changed the faulty parts the dishwasher started working, no water in the dishwasher remaining and the water is now heating, everything looks fine, but.... it past 5 years I think from the last use, the dishwasher makes some strange noise (in the washing cycle), the circulation pump is the culprits, the spray arms are clean (it makes the same sound without the arms), the impeller is clean, nothing stuck, it makes the sound like a half rotation like the motor is not working properly, can the motor work half way but rotate the impeller correctly? or is just the sound from the impeller pushing the water? It sounds not normal, I don't want to change the circulation pump, any suggestion? I will open the dishwasher again next week and verify again the circulation pump motor, it's like it's going half way, I don't like it (it's like something will break if I let it be like this).

 

[Sebastian Demian]

I'm back after watching for some hours videos on YouTube, the problem can be the bushings of the circulation pump, I will open it, last time I checked only the motor wiring and the impeller from outside, I didn't open it, the plastic cap was stuck, very little it moved by rotating, I will try it again next week.

 

[JohnD]

Nice to have a hobby

 

[Sebastian Demian]

The circulation pump had harden detergent remains in it and the bearings must be replaced. Does someone know if 35 ohms are ok for a circulation pump? (the motor is 220-230Vac, 50Hz, 0.50A, 60W) with this values the resistance should be higher, I read that value between 20–40 ohms it's good but also that it's not good that it should be 200–400 ohms. If someone knows, that would be great, the winding looks good (like new), I have some corrosion on the stator.