DIY Patio Table build - joint correction

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Hello all

I've just completed the mammoth (to me) summer DIY task of brick patio, pergola and brick BBQ area and to finish it off as this wasn't enough work, I decided to also build the table for the patio.

I've made it from reclaimed scaffold boards and general 4x2 and 4x3 for the legs. When I was making the top, I tried my hardest to get straight edges on the boards but (a) because I'm a complete novice and (b) because I only have a very cheap (think Aldi middle aisle item) second-hand small table saw, they haven't quite lined up and there are a few gaps in places. I did at least use a biscuit jointer whilst gluing up. There are also a few fairly narrow splits (see last picture) that were already in the boards that could do with some filling at the same time. What would be the best thing to fill these with that will last and also look reasonable?

I have bought some Cuprinol treatment for the whole table once gaps are all closed up to protect it from the elements and will also put some sort of plastic feet on the bottom of the legs to raise it off the brickwork (damp) and also get a decent cover for it for the winter.

Any (kind) critique and advice very welcome!
 

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Leave it as it is.
Rustic look needs imperfections and that's exactly what you've achieved.
I wouldn't use cuprinol to finish it.
Use sika wood preserver first; soak it properly especially on edges.
Then 2 or 3 coats of sadolin classic (many colours available)
 
But what about water getting in the cracks - not to mention also food and drink...?

I've already bought the Cuprinol as I found it to be very good stuff on other garden furniture enriching dried out wood and with good waterproofing characteristics. Do you have a particular reason to recommend against it?
 
I think timber outdoors is going to expand and contract more than indoors and worrying about nice tight joints is going to be moot after a year or two. Definitely a good idea keeping the timber off the ground.
 
Cracks will be treated with preserver and varnish.
By all means, fill them if you must, but it's not essential.
The table will last just as long without going into super detail mode.
If you like cuprinol, go for it.
I find it patchy and rough.
 
I use would use oil, danish oil soaks in especially if diluted with white spirit and can help make the timber swell reducing some of the cracks.
I would recommend 6 coats minimum .
 
I use would use oil, danish oil soaks in especially if diluted with white spirit and can help make the timber swell reducing some of the cracks.
I would recommend 6 coats minimum .

Each to their own, but I would not use Danish oil outdoors. I would go with teak oil.

 
Each to their own, but I would not use Danish oil outdoors. I would go with teak oil.

Lots of oils to choose from , depend if you can keep the table covered during adverse weather , have used decking oil on garden furniture .
 
Lots of oils to choose from , depend if you can keep the table covered during adverse weather , have used decking oil on garden furniture .


Fair enough, but, again, I would not recommend danish oil if it is going to get wet at any point. With teak oil you can see the finish trying to repel the water, that said, yeah, in time it too will fail if subject to regular rain.
 
Fair enough, but, again, I would not recommend danish oil if it is going to get wet at any point. With teak oil you can see the finish trying to repel the water, that said, yeah, in time it too will fail if subject to regular rain.

That's what I've always liked about the Cuprinol (Cuprinol Ultimate to be more specific), the water repellence is so good - water beads on it like a freshly polished and waxed car.
 
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