Does my floor need to be this high?

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I have a stable that I would like to convert into a usable room. The floor is currently concrete, but I'd like a nice wooded floor.

I'm looking at building regs etc, and it is saying a layer of DPM, then a gap of 150mm, then 6x2 joists (the span is about 3.2m)... All told this is making the floor so high off the current concrete. Do much so that a step will have to be build to enter.

Am I reading all this right?

I've attached some pics showing the rough height and how impractical it is.

Any thoughts greatly appreciated.


Many thanks,
Matthew
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Could you fit the joist ends on joist hangars fixed to the wall, with an intermediate sleeper wall suitably protected from damp by a length of dpc underneath. That might reduce the thickness of joist you need as well. Don't know about building regs but it would seem to achieve the same outcome in terms of resisting damp ingress.

Blup
 
Can’t you float a floor?
granted it was a while ago, but a mate and I converted a detached garage to a recording studio. We applied a liquid dpm to the floor and then used a plastic membrane as well for backup. Then we used a rock wool insulation and floated a chipboard floor.
because of the studio’s requirements we glued the boards together but nothing was fixed down or was in contact to the sides.
Then we used carpet.

The studio is not classed as “habitable” I don’t know if you need “habitable”

The studio has been trouble free for the entire time and no issues with damp etc. it’s incredibly soundproof as we did all sorts to the walls and roof.
 
Thank you so much for your answers...

And it actually is a music rehearsal room I'm converting it into.

The floating floor options does sound like a good way forward.
 
Ok.
so for the recordings side, we used a rock wool that was close to wheatabix in feel floor wise. I can possibly find out the correct codes.
The walls were brick in the garage. We built a wooden framed structure inside based on frames sized for plasterboard and the rock wool width. These sat on 1” thick neoprene 4” wide . No fixings were made to the external fabric. This mechanical coupling would transmit noise.
The frames then had two layers of rock wool with an air gap between them. Do not allow it to touch the outside. The air gap is vital to soundproofing. You might want to add something to the back of the walls if they are just shiplap?
then we used plasterboard in two layers, staggered. No overlap of joins and mastic was used between the first layer, plaster on the second.
The room was skimmed and attention to all gaps.
It’s very soundproof and the temperature inside is constant although a bunch of guys will raise it to “uncomfortable” after a few hours with the doors closed (two sets of doors)
Mass is your friend.
in this heat, my mate sleeps in there as it’s way cooler than his house.
 
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