Door bell setup / Ring Door Bell (Pro v Elite)

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Hi

Does anyone have any experience of the Pro Ring door bell versus the Elite version that they can share? I understand that the only difference with Elite is that it is PoE which means that if your router goes down the bell will not work?

I am towards the end stage of a building project and trying to workout the setup for a Ring Pro doorbell (hardwired version). I will be having three chimers/sounders around the house. My setup will be as follows:

First chimer located within a cupboard near the front door where the main fuse board and bell transformer will be. Chimer and transformer will be approx 10m cable run from the Ring doorbell
Second chimer will be located on the ground floor towards the back of the house. I would say approx 20-25m cable run from the Ring Pro door bell
Third chimer will be on the first floor, approx 15-20m cable run from the Ring Pro door bell

Questions:
1. What type of transformer can I purchase that can power all three chimers (any recommendation/provide a few options including Friedland or some good quality makes
2. What type of cable should I be using given the long cable runs?
3. How should I get the builder to run the setup. Is it one cable from the Ring Pro door bell to the transformer and then one cable from the transformer to each of the sounders or some other way?
 
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I understand that the only difference with Elite is that it is PoE which means that if your router goes down the bell will not work?
The Elite doesn't appear to be for sale outside the USA.

However both versions require the internet to work - one is wired, the other wireless.
If the internet or router fails, no doorbell.
 
It is not correct to say that the doorbell does not work if the Internet is down. You may not have the ability to view images or video on your phone but that's with any product that relies on the Internet to broadcast image or video.

The bell will still sound.
 
The bell will still sound.
If it's wired to a traditional 8V chime or bell then it will.

But the whole point of the Ring device is that is requires an internet connection for all of it's features, and it's designed so that it's primary method of operation is via a smartphone/tablet, and if you want additional sounders you buy the Ring wireless ones and plug them in to a socket wherever convenient.

The connection to a normal doorbell is a secondary feature designed to make it easier to install where an existing powered doorbell is already fitted, not as a backup for when things go wrong.

For a new installation, you would buy the Pro version and use the 24V transformer supplied with it for power.
The only wiring required is 2 core between the location of the Ring and the consumer unit where the transformer is installed.
 
I am currently waiting for a tempting price drop on the Ring Pro at the moment aswell (AO.com almost have me at their current £179.99 deal).

The transformer comes in the box and the chimes are wireless.

I am no electrician but as far as I am aware only one cable run is required from Transformer (plugged into consumer unit DIN rail) > Doorbell

edit* just realised ive pretty much just parroted what flameport said above.
 
If it's wired to a traditional 8V chime or bell then it will.

But the whole point of the Ring device is that is requires an internet connection for all of it's features, and it's designed so that it's primary method of operation is via a smartphone/tablet, and if you want additional sounders you buy the Ring wireless ones and plug them in to a socket wherever convenient.

The connection to a normal doorbell is a secondary feature designed to make it easier to install where an existing powered doorbell is already fitted, not as a backup for when things go wrong.

For a new installation, you would buy the Pro version and use the 24V transformer supplied with it for power.
The only wiring required is 2 core between the location of the Ring and the consumer unit where the transformer is installed.

Yes whilst use of the internet to view it is one of the main features, it is still wrong to say it wont work. Wont work for a brief time as a intercom or remote viewing yes, but then the same can be said about any device which has added internet connectivity. If smart kettles, ovens, microwaves all have remote access on them, to say that if the router goes down you device wont work, is not true. Yes no remote access but the microwave will still work. The number of times the router goes down can be counted on my fingers for 2017.

In terms of the two core cable, given the long distances I am referring to above, what type of 2 core is recommended? 1.5mm cable maybe but can this be some sort of flex cable rather than the grey lighting cable which is more rigid?
 
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