Door liner to substitute for door frame

J

jay4444

Joined
11 Feb 2006
Messages
12
Reaction score
0
Location
West Midlands
Country
United Kingdom
Dear all,
I'm sorry to start a new thread. I did an advanced search yet couldn't find an answer to my possibly stupid question.
I'm converting my downstairs utility to a small cloakroom. I don't have enough space to fit a door frame. Can I fix a door directly to a door liner instead a door frame?
I would appreciate if anyone could advise?
Thanking you in anticipation.
 
Yes. Sort of. How thick is your lining going to be? You'll also need to purchase some stop laths as well
 
It isn't a fire door, so there are no issues. You will need to ensure that the lining is adequately supported, especially behind the hinges (between the back of the lining and the wall - you need tonfix through the packers). A lining is plain, no rebates (casings have rebates), unless you have bought a lining kit which should come with the stop laths in the kit. What did you think a lining was?

Any half decent timber yard or builders merchant should be able to supply planed softwood stop lath ex-stock. Tell them it's not a fire rated door - those are smaller sections. You can also make up your own linings using planed timber, but I think 25mm thick (finished) is the barest minimum thickness you can get away with, and then only if the door isn't a heavy one
 
JobAndKnock said:
It isn't a fire door, so there are no issues. You will need to ensure that the lining is adequately supported, especially behind the hinges (between the back of the lining and the wall - you need tonfix through the packers). A lining is plain, no rebates (casings have rebates), unless you have bought a lining kit which should come with the stop laths in the kit. What did you think a lining was?

Any half decent timber yard or builders merchant should be able to supply planed softwood stop lath ex-stock. Tell them it's not a fire rated door - those are smaller sections. You can also make up your own linings using planed timber, but I think 25mm thick (finished) is the barest minimum thickness you can get away with, and then only if the door isn't a heavy one
Click to expand...
Thanks a lot for the comprehensive reply. It's not a fire door. Mine is a three storey house therefore all rooms have fire doors but I think a loo may not need a one.
Cheers mate.
 
just make sure your screws are fully threaded and iff you have any packing space then 30mm screws are best as you have no lost support as the point will be through the timber so 25mm will be 3mm lost to screwhead sunk with hinge so 22mm thread rather than a further 5mm from point within timber giving say 17-18mm thread so 25% more full grip [17.5mm+ 25%=22mm]
 
big-all said:
just make sure your screws are fully threaded and iff you have any packing space then 30mm screws are best as you have no lost support as the point will be through the timber so 25mm will be 3mm lost to screwhead sunk with hinge so 22mm thread rather than a further 5mm from point within timber giving say 17-18mm thread so 25% more full grip [17.5mm+ 25%=22mm]
Click to expand...
Thanks a lot for the advice.
 
JobAndKnock said:
I certainly can't recall ever installing a fire door on a loo
Click to expand...

I have.

They have a satisfying weight and solidity, matching the others, and this also means they are very good at muffling noise. The packing and sealing round the liner also helps.

Cheap hollow doors are the reverse.
 
By fire door, John, I really meant a full set with intumescent strips, closer, etc. A solid core flush door, whilst good at sound muffling, isn't necessarilly a fire door
 
Last edited by a moderator:
It does have a closer, and fire rated hinges, same as the others. Don't recall if it has intumescent strips. My house is older and did not have them when new, it had big stops. I am aware that it is not to current standards. The doors are all FD30, which I call a fire door.

In some cases I have added furry strips because they also act as draught strips.,
 
JohnD said:
In some cases I have added furry strips because they also act as draught strips.,
Click to expand...
Or cold smoke seals...

Technically a fire door is only classed as a fire door if it is installed correctly. If it isn't installed to spec, it can't be guaranteed to prevent a fire from spreading. Ergo what you have aren't classed as fire doors.
 
JobAndKnock said:
Or cold smoke seals...

Technically a fire door is only classed as a fire door if it is installed correctly. If it isn't installed to spec, it can't be guaranteed to prevent a fire from spreading. Ergo what you have aren't classed as fire doors.
Click to expand...

Alas, ignorant people like me call an FD30 a fire door, even if it is sitting in a showroom or warehouse, or listed in a catalogue.

Example

www.internaldoors.co.uk

Internal Fire Doors - FD30 & FD60 Rated Doors - Internal Doors™

Premium fire doors from Internal Doors UK. FD30 and FD60 interior oak fire doors keeps your home safe. Buy contemporary, panel, and glazed, wooden fire doors.
www.internaldoors.co.uk www.internaldoors.co.uk
 
But it doesn't stop fires, so it ain't a fire door. This is a bit like window cills (or window boards)...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top