door lock router jig
- Thread starter Thermo
- Start date
i still do it the traditional way spade bits and chisels 
people swear by them from what i have gathered ideal for 3 or more doors unless the equipment is to hand [eg you dont have to waste time finding it extra carrying ect] but i havent actualy used one
people swear by them from what i have gathered ideal for 3 or more doors unless the equipment is to hand [eg you dont have to waste time finding it extra carrying ect] but i havent actualy used one
What wrong with a mallet & chisel or am'I getting old 
Axminster Door Lock Jig don't appears to have a face plate recess cut out, I maybe wrong but can't see it.
I don't own one but my mate who have got this one because it cut the mortice & face plate recess. £30 dearer, depends what you want to do.
Axminster Door Lock Jig don't appears to have a face plate recess cut out, I maybe wrong but can't see it.
I don't own one but my mate who have got this one because it cut the mortice & face plate recess. £30 dearer, depends what you want to do.
yes i am normally a chisel type of person too, but ive got a job with eight of them to do, so im not one to stand in the way of progress. Im just after investing in a decent one and wondered if anyone has any experiance of them.
Thermo
Thermo
If I'm fitting locks in the workshop then I will use the router for the faceplate recess freehand between knife marks and clean up with a chisel, same for hinges. If there are more than about six hinges then I will nock up a jig from scrap MDF, rout out and use one of those sprung forner chisels for the corners.
The lock jigs that I have seen will all be limited by the plunge depth of the router or you have to change bits to an extra long one which would put a lot of strain on the router & collet so I'll stick to a spade bit & chisel.
If you have deep pockets you could always try one of these
http://www.powertooldirect.co.uk/en-gb/dept_223.html
Jason
The lock jigs that I have seen will all be limited by the plunge depth of the router or you have to change bits to an extra long one which would put a lot of strain on the router & collet so I'll stick to a spade bit & chisel.
If you have deep pockets you could always try one of these
http://www.powertooldirect.co.uk/en-gb/dept_223.html
Jason
Only just found this thread! I use the Trend lock jig. It paid for itself after just the second door I reckon. However I do have separate routers all set up for each function rather than changing depths and cutters etc.
What I like is the fact that you can't do a bad job with these jigs. Routing the shallow recess for the faceplate is perfect every time, no matter what the door timber is.
The deep rebate for the lock/latch body is also always prefectly square to the door, no chance of 'break out' or an out-of-square lock, causing stiffness and fouling with the handle spindle.
It is very well made too, it clamps very firmly to the door (essential) without doing any damage.
What I like is the fact that you can't do a bad job with these jigs. Routing the shallow recess for the faceplate is perfect every time, no matter what the door timber is.
The deep rebate for the lock/latch body is also always prefectly square to the door, no chance of 'break out' or an out-of-square lock, causing stiffness and fouling with the handle spindle.
It is very well made too, it clamps very firmly to the door (essential) without doing any damage.