Door swelling and sticking

^woody^ said:
If it's the bottom of the door, you could try the old rough sandpaper on the cill trick and opening and closing the door a few times. Then wax the area that's binding.

The tool the carpet fitter may have used might be a biscuit cutter. Very rough if so.
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A biscuit joiner will only cut to a depth of only about 22mm. I don't see why you think a biscuit joiner was used.
 
Matt42 said:
Well sandpaper didn't do much so I bought a 10 quid stanley planer which has got rid of the sticking points all around except the bottom of the door where there's no room to plane. Reluctant to take the door off yet to plane. Clearly, can see the middle part of the door is lower as there's wetness there in the mornings. Not sure where the wet is coming from though as there's no wet around the door or on the step in the front of the door. Could it just be condensation forming over night?
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Given that you don't want to take the door off, you could sand/plane the door sill.

I have one the same in the past. It's not best practice though because it becomes a PITA when you fit a new door.
 
'Given that you don't want to take the door off, you could sand/plane the door sill' - I thought I would limit my DIY damage just to the door rather than spreading the love? I gave up the idea of using a biscuit thingie to take a cm off. I think I'll just sand some more tomorrow but I dont understand where the dampness is coming from. If I fix that then the door might shrink there?
 
Matt42 said:
'Given that you don't want to take the door off, you could sand/plane the door sill' - I thought I would limit my DIY damage just to the door rather than spreading the love? I gave up the idea of using a biscuit thingie to take a cm off. I think I'll just sand some more tomorrow but I dont understand where the dampness is coming from. If I fix that then the door might shrink there?
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It may be the case that the underside of the door is not sealed.

I am a decorator, but unless a customer wants to pay me to remove the door to paint the underside, I will "nudge" the brush as much as I can.
 
^woody^ said:
Because that's what dodgy chippies and carpet fitters use.

22 + 22 = 44 - the thickness of an external door
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You may be correct but I think it more likely that, if cutting a door in situ, they would have used a dedicated door saw rather than trying to cut from both sides.

I could be wrong, but I find it unlikely that that a carpet fitter would have a biscuit joiner.
 
^woody^ said:
How much is a trim saw?
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Last time I looked a Roberts jamb saw was top side of £400. The Virutex version is pushing twice that in 110 volt.

TBH I haven't come across many flooring guys who own one (a couple in the last decade) - they tend to leave the job of trimming the doors to the chippies - so planer and/or plunge saw and rail (I believe the DW saw can be used on a door in situ, @big-all would be the one to ask, I guess). TBH I can't imagine anyone with even half a brain would want to risk wrecking the base plate of a biscuit jointer (one if its' register surfaces) by sliding it across a floor or the ground. In any case, a BJ is basically a workshop tool, surely? Best just to have the door off and stick it on the trestles
 
What's with the resistance to taking the door off? It takes minutes (even seconds) - get your knocky-knock out (impact driver) and whip those screws out it's a newish door so should be easy. Do the necessary. Replace highest screw in highest hinge loosely by just tipping the door so it lines up. Swing the door out at the bottom so the bottom screw can be replaced. Insert and tighten the rest - job done.

Original screws, in original screw holes will reinstate the door in exactly the same position. Why wouldn't you?
 
Mrrusty you haven't seen my DIY skills! I used my cheap wickes planner enough to make the door as 'sticky' as I could bear and the dry weather has helped even more recently so it's shutting and closing better now albeit a bit stiff. Dreading the summer I might have a gap!
 
Odds said:
Have you put a weatherproof varnish on the door?
It looks bare to me.
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It's funny you should say that as I was just thinking I really should treat it based upon previous comments above and now the weather is getting better. Do I need a stain or a preserver? How much in quantity? Oh lord, I guess I will need to take the door off after all then to stain it.
 
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Matt42 said:
It's funny you should say that as I was just thinking I really should treat it based upon previous comments above and now the weather is getting better. Do I need a stain or a preserver? How much in quantity? Oh lord, I guess I will need to take the door off after all then to stain it.
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In a perfect world the door would be treated before hanging but it all depends on the finish you want to see at the end: a natural look wouldn't need a stain, and clear gloss/matt varnish would maintain the natural appearance of the door.
I usually use Ronseal: it always does exactly what it says on the tin.
Until then, don't take any more off your door, allow it to dry out and around the equinox you should be able to enjoy a day in the spring air to do the job.
 
I just need it matching the the shed. I dont think the shed wood will fade anymore.
 

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Matt42 said:
'Given that you don't want to take the door off, you could sand/plane the door sill' - I thought I would limit my DIY damage just to the door rather than spreading the love? I gave up the idea of using a biscuit thingie to take a cm off. I think I'll just sand some more tomorrow but I dont understand where the dampness is coming from. If I fix that then the door might shrink there?
Click to expand...
Errrm... I saw a washing machine!
 
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