Door Threshold / FFL

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murphyabu

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Looking at ordering an aluminium door for our extension,

I have transferred the existing house FFL out to where the new front door will be and I can see the last course of bricks finishes too high to give a flush threshold from the door in.

I've drawn a couple of lines on the brick to show existing screed level in the house and what would be the finish floor level.

Would it be acceptable/proper to remove the top course of bricks (which is sat on a DPM) and build a shutter to fill with a sand/cement mix to achieve the correct height for the door to be installed on.

Many thanks
 

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Before laying the bricks for the doorway, dimensions of the frame should have be determined, so yes, the bricks are too high and need removed. Also, they should have been fitted them back at least 50mm or so so the door fits in the cavity. Now it has to be fitted onto the outer leaf, so the vertical DPC needs sorted correctly, it just has cavity closers in place. The vertical DPC needs to behind the outer leaf and wrap forward of the opening. Then fit the door, seal the frame edge to the dpc and then trim the excess dpc off. So any moisture will go in and around the outer-leaf and down the cavity as opposed the frame and dpc. It's amazing how many bricklayers can't do door openings
 
That's interesting,
I've not seen an opening done that way previously, also building control didn't pass any remarks and there was nothing like you describe in the detail.
If it helps this is an opening under cover as shown below so I'm hoping it won't be overly exposed to the elements.
 

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That was my bad, I fear the builders knew me asking for an additional course was a mistake hence they didn't fill the centres!

So, back to the original question please,

Could I make up a shutter to the correct height and use something like a 4:1 mix (sharp/cement) for the door to be installed on.

Thanks
 
murphyabu said:
Could I make up a shutter to the correct height and use something like a 4:1 mix (sharp/cement) for the door to be installed on.

Thanks
Click to expand...
No. Ordinarily, you would remove two courses of brick, then replace them with a course of snap headers. However, have you checked with your door supplier, to see if the door threshold is deep enough to deal with the screed level?
 
Bonni said:
Before laying the bricks for the doorway, dimensions of the frame should have be determined, so yes, the bricks are too high and need removed. Also, they should have been fitted them back at least 50mm or so so the door fits in the cavity. Now it has to be fitted onto the outer leaf, so the vertical DPC needs sorted correctly, it just has cavity closers in place. The vertical DPC needs to behind the outer leaf and wrap forward of the opening. Then fit the door, seal the frame edge to the dpc and then trim the excess dpc off. So any moisture will go in and around the outer-leaf and down the cavity as opposed the frame and dpc. It's amazing how many bricklayers can't do door openings
Click to expand...
Eh?

Are you confusing building site version, structural cavity closers that are dedicated openings fixers?
 
noseall said:
No. Ordinarily, you would remove two courses of brick, then replace them with a course of snap headers. However, have you checked with your door supplier, to see if the door threshold is deep enough to deal with the screed level?
Click to expand...
Yes, door threshold gives 11m so they suggest top of brickwork is level with FFL.

If removing two courses and putting in a snap header does that mean the DPC will be at a different level at the door opening, i.e. a course lower?

Thanks @noseall
 
noseall said:
11mm? Seriously? Is there no sill, lol
Click to expand...
Well, what's there is minimal........
Haven't necessarily decided this is the door I'll be going for, I've further questions about insulation/panel construction etc.
 

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noseall said:
WTF is that a section of? :oops: :confused:
Click to expand...

The aluminium door and it's aluminium frame apparently! The lack of insulation visible in the door has me concerned,
And positioning that frame in the opening for the cill to clear the external leaf could prove tricky!
 
That section should have a cill section that extends beyond the front of the brick by 20mm or something, you don't move the door out so its beyond the face of the wall. They should be able to supply a wider cill. If they can't then change to a different manufacturer/supplier who can.

eg:

Aluminum-Low-Threshold-Cill.gif
 
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