Thanks EPL - i've already bitten the bullet and going to try the 18v AC transformer but will keep that one in mind if this doesn't work (although not a good photo, it looks like a rust bucket.. lol)
Doorbell Transformer
- Thread starter oakc
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Nigel Farage said that we can have as many volts as we want, when we Brexit!!
But "nominal" exists in name only which is why you don't get 230V.
Slightly off topic - if wiring into the CU is not an option, what is better solution loop in from ceiling rose on lighting circuit or from a fused spur on socket circuit?
if go down fused spur switch route will there be enough room to put the transformer in the back box or can you do this? with it being safe i mean?
i'd rather not have to pull floorboards up if/when transformer gives up the ghost, so leaning towards fused spur switch, at least that way too if needs be can turn doorbell off if need quiet or whatever
the CU is kind of ideal (on same a-joining wall as chime) so could mount the transformer next to the CU like i've seen suggested but i'm not sure i'm confident enough to go messing in the CU to wire it directly
if go down fused spur switch route will there be enough room to put the transformer in the back box or can you do this? with it being safe i mean?
i'd rather not have to pull floorboards up if/when transformer gives up the ghost, so leaning towards fused spur switch, at least that way too if needs be can turn doorbell off if need quiet or whatever
the CU is kind of ideal (on same a-joining wall as chime) so could mount the transformer next to the CU like i've seen suggested but i'm not sure i'm confident enough to go messing in the CU to wire it directly
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[GALLERY=media, 97925]Doorbell setup by oakc posted 29 Jun 2016 at 1:46 AM[/GALLERY]
Excuse the shoddy labelling but that's how easy it would be, i don't mind having wiring "on show" either in garage it's only the hallway i'll want to try have no wires visible. how easy is it to actually get a feed from CU? i don't think i have any spare 6amp, so will i need a local switch if feed is from lighting fuse?
Excuse the shoddy labelling but that's how easy it would be, i don't mind having wiring "on show" either in garage it's only the hallway i'll want to try have no wires visible. how easy is it to actually get a feed from CU? i don't think i have any spare 6amp, so will i need a local switch if feed is from lighting fuse?
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Low voltage means you lose the ding, but you still get the dong. The chime has a spring loaded hammer which the power sends to the ding chime and the loss of power sends it back to the dong. AC power does not work the solenoid as well as DC so it was common to have option of 3 volt battery or 8 volt transformer.
The current used is often well over the transformer rating it relies on the person pushing the door push on not holding their finger on the button too long. The standard bell transformer for years has been 4-8-12 volt often three connections and you select the voltage required.
Often one can stretch or compress the spring on the striker to adjust for volt drop of the cable. Today the standard voltage for a door bell is 8 volt. Most of the transformers which will either fit in the consumer unit or stand alone are 8 volt. I bought an odd one out from Mr Doorbell on the internet which had an intercom and a option for a auto door release. This was 12 volt DC and the electrical firm converting it from battery to mains had problems finding a suitable transformer and in the end used a Walmart type which really was not suitable.
Old car battery chargers also used 16 volt transformers I have repaired them using a bell transformer although not domestic type. I note on Mr Doorbell site clicking on the transformer link it says unavailable so it seems there is an issue getting the older 16 volt transformers. I have only seen 16 volt transformers for commercial systems, they were the size of a small loaf of bread.
If I wanted one I would give Mr Doorbell a ring, if you excuse the pun, it has a customer help line why not use it?
The current used is often well over the transformer rating it relies on the person pushing the door push on not holding their finger on the button too long. The standard bell transformer for years has been 4-8-12 volt often three connections and you select the voltage required.
Often one can stretch or compress the spring on the striker to adjust for volt drop of the cable. Today the standard voltage for a door bell is 8 volt. Most of the transformers which will either fit in the consumer unit or stand alone are 8 volt. I bought an odd one out from Mr Doorbell on the internet which had an intercom and a option for a auto door release. This was 12 volt DC and the electrical firm converting it from battery to mains had problems finding a suitable transformer and in the end used a Walmart type which really was not suitable.
Old car battery chargers also used 16 volt transformers I have repaired them using a bell transformer although not domestic type. I note on Mr Doorbell site clicking on the transformer link it says unavailable so it seems there is an issue getting the older 16 volt transformers. I have only seen 16 volt transformers for commercial systems, they were the size of a small loaf of bread.
If I wanted one I would give Mr Doorbell a ring, if you excuse the pun, it has a customer help line why not use it?
When you write your review, make sure you stress what an unsuitable product it is for the UK market.
Yes - nominal.
Because we have to have a name for a voltage value to be used in calculations
And that value IS 230V.
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Which is totally wrong and frankly dangerous. Common sense says that the voltage in calculations should be the voltage most usually encountered and that is 240volts and has been for many decades.
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Locked for the usual silly bickering
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