Hi I've stripped back to the bare brick on a small toilet room, which I intend to tile over after plaster boarding. The problem I have is the walls are very uneven, my question is how do I make sure the plaster boards are level with one another and plumb? For plumb I'm guessing its start from the high point and fill out the low points with more adhesive. I'm not sure how to level the boards with one another so that they are flush and inline. I'm guessing it's all in the setting and marking out to get everything squared off, so if someone could enlighten me as to how this is done correctly it would be a big help.
Best way for someone new to this is to mark across both the floor and the ceiling so then when you attached the board you can line it up with your marks.
Then for the next board you can use a large spirit level to get them all flush and plumb. If you do not care about your level then most people give the board a good whack with the level itself.
Space the board's off the floor with an offcut.
Before you even start do a condensation risk assessment and see if your particular boards are suitable and even able to be fixed with dot and dab.
Then for the next board you can use a large spirit level to get them all flush and plumb. If you do not care about your level then most people give the board a good whack with the level itself.
Space the board's off the floor with an offcut.
Before you even start do a condensation risk assessment and see if your particular boards are suitable and even able to be fixed with dot and dab.
Thanks Swwils, two questions though, firstly a condensation risk assessment how would I go about doing that? The stripped back walls are single skin burnt clay hollow brick. One wall partitions to a separate bathroom which will be tanked the other to a bedroom, so possible variations in temp hitting these walls. Secondly, how do I ensure the line scored on the ground matches the ceiling line? The top of the wall is set back from the bottom so I cant do the easy thing of measuring off the wall.
I'm using standard gyproc plasterboard which is suitable for dotting and dabbing, hoping I won't have to upgrade to that expensive foil backed stuff.
cheers.
I'm using standard gyproc plasterboard which is suitable for dotting and dabbing, hoping I won't have to upgrade to that expensive foil backed stuff.
cheers.
Sounds like an ideal time to get yourself a laser level that does plumb points, makes this kind of marking a doddle.
Just take into account what you have removed and what you are replacing it with, lots of good videos online for guidance, also the plasterboard manufacturer will likely be able to have some technical assistance. If it's internal walls then unlikely to see any major cold temperatures, but it does vary by what you have got.
Just take into account what you have removed and what you are replacing it with, lots of good videos online for guidance, also the plasterboard manufacturer will likely be able to have some technical assistance. If it's internal walls then unlikely to see any major cold temperatures, but it does vary by what you have got.