Drop Seal on a Wonky Floor

[DIYWell]

I'm trying to reduced the draught under an internal door.

When closed, the door has a floor to bottom of the door gap of 5mm by the hinge and 35mm at the other end. Fully open, 5mm at the hinge, 15 at the other. I could, in theory, add a triangular fillet and reduce the closed gap to 25mm.

Do asymmetric drop seals exits that would fill a 25mm triangular gap?

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Drop seals confirm to the floor to an extent, that's their purpose, but they can't handle hollow or crowned floors unless the carve bits out of the seal, and the range of out of level they can handle probably isn't 20mm. It doesn't matter how much gap there is when the door is open (because the seal retracts about 15 to 25mm) - it's the gap when the door is closed which matters.

The best way to deal with this is to level the floor beneath the drop seals (which is what had to be done on some doors one hospital job we did), but assuming that isn't feasible I'd have the door off, shorten it a bit, then plant on a tapered solid wood piece, not a wedge which tapers to nothing as they are problematic to fix. A drop seal can then be fixed on the outside of the door

 

[DIYWell]

Searching around, The best drop seal I can find is 14mm, so still 10mm short. I could maybe tweak the threshold strip by 5mm, but that still leaves me 5mm out. Might have to put this into my "do that later" pile and tackle more practical things.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Are you aware that on fire doors you are only aiming to get to within 4mm of the floor (as required by fire regs)?

If the floor really is that bad then surely it's the floor which needs the attention, isn't it?

 

[^woody^]

All internal doors have gaps at the bottom.

You'll probably need one of those long sausage dog things.

 

[DIYWell]

Kinda awkward for a door that opens out onto a staircase. Fiddling and footling and a bit of bodging will probably be in order.

 

[^woody^]

Rising butts then