Dual Heating Zones Hive Mini Install

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David Foster

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Hi, I currently have a 2 zone (upstairs/downstairs) central heating system with combi boiler. I use the controller set to RUN (don't use the programmer) and control the heating with the 2 wall thermostats. I want to replace the 2 wall thermostats with Hive Mini thermostats.

I plan to remove the 2 old thermostats and disconnect the wiring from the wiring centre. Wire the 2 hive receivers next to the boiler. Remove the controller and connect the wires to RUN and put a blanking plate over. Am I on the right lines with my plan please? Just checking what you think of the existing wiring centre, I was expecting something tidier with maybe a wiring diagram. I'll open it up and spread the connections and get a better photo if that will help you advise me please.

Thanks.

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I think I would utilise the existing programmer back box for one Hive receiver, and mount the second directly above - it's saves some effort!

You already have a live, neutral and earth, in that box, that you can loop through to the second receiver.

For the single channel Hives, you would also add a link from L to terminal one (common).
The Heating On, terminal 3 (NO) from each receiver, can then be fed up to the brown wires in these terminals in the wiring centre...

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The wiring to the old stats can then be removed.

The old programmer then has to be linked out, but before that, can you confirm it's make and model please?
 
As it's all nicely contained in one room, personally I would remove much of what's there, start again and tidy everything up at the same time. The old dial thermostats. programmer and their associated wiring can go, but the existing wires to the boiler and motorised valves can remain.

Each Hive Mini Requires a permanent N&L for operating power, and a link between L and 1.
Terminal 3 (heating on) of one Hive mini goes to the live of motorised valve 1
Terminal 3 (heating on) of the other Hive mini goes to the live of motorised valve 2

The blue wire from both the motorised valves goes to neutral [as they do now]

The grey wire from both motorised valves goes to a permanent L [as they do now]

The orange wire from both motorised valves is the boiler switched live [as they are now]

The boiler will have a 230V mains supply and that can stay as it is now, along with the switched live from the motorised valves (orange wires)

EDIT
Beaten to it by @RandomGrinch....So you have two options now. :giggle:
 
Thank you both for sharing your knowledge, much appreciated. I had installed a single hive in my previous house, but direct to the boiler, no wiring centre nest of wires or other zones.

I understand what you mean about starting again stem :D but it is what it is. RandomGrinch, yes, about retaining the back box, but, I have new black ones for the receivers, so I'll keep my bit neater. The controller is an ESi, never got to grips with it, previous owners never left a manual.

Thanks again.

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David Foster said:
The controller is an ESi, never got to grips with it, previous owners never left a manual.
Click to expand...
Interesting and why I asked the question...
Your existing controller has a hot water on connection.
Although you have a Combi, do you also have a small tank/thermal store?
 
As far as I know, no. No HW cylinder or tank anywhere. The display on the controller has a tap on it! Do you think they have just used a controller that they had in store? The houses were built in 2018, when we moved in 2 years ago, the previous owners never left a single bit of paper on how anything worked. As I said, I gave up on the controller, just put it on constant run and used the thermostats to put the heating on or off. HW is instant, boiler kicks in when tap on. It doesn't look like a HW connection on the backplate? Cheers.

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A big thanks again to you two for your help. All sorted, working great, cheers.

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