ELECTRICS SAFETY

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SAFETY TIPS

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Here are some general safety tips for doing electrical work particularly on installations where you are dubious about the quality!

1: Test for live both before and after isolating.

Testing before isolating serves both to test your tester and to ensure that the power hasn't already been turned off by something other than the isolating device you are about to use.

2: Test neutrals for live both before and after disconnecting or cutting them.

Borrowed neutrals are all too common especially on lighting circuits

3: Always treat conductors as if they are live even after checking they are dead.

4: If possible make it difficult to re-energise cuircuits you are working on.

If not then at least make sure you warn anyone who might switch them back on.

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SAFE ISOLATION. THANKS TO SECURESPARK

Lately, there have been incidents of posters taking risks with electricity & working live. I would like to make everyone using this site acutely aware of the importance of safe isolation.
To an untrained person, the risks of working with electricity are not always fully appreciated. I get a bee in my bonnet about this because I have seen the consequences of not isolating safely & it is extremely grim.

Over the 20 + years I've been in this industry, I've heard some shocking things (no pun intended). "Well, I've had a shock before and it's only a little tingle" or even, "It's only a few volts" which are comments I hear all too often from customers.

PLEASE, you MUST practice safe isolation before working on an electrical circuit, AND the only live working you should do is when testing.
It is best to wear gloves when testing to avoid any possibility of contact with live parts, and REMEMBER that hair can conduct electricity so tie it back.

Do not wear metallic jewellery or watches. Electrical contact with these can cause the metal to heat up and cause severe burns.
I have seen pictures of an electrician who lost a finger due to his wedding ring arcing against a live terminal.

SAFE ISOLATION PROCEDURE:

1. First obtain a two-pole voltage detector and test it on a known source.
2. Isolate the circuit you wish to work on.
3. Test the circuit you wish to work on to see if it is dead. Test between L & N, L & E and N & E.
4. Then test the device again on a known source to prove it is still working.
5. Lock off the device if possible. If the fuse board is in a garage or outhouse that is lockable, lock it and keep the key with you.

If you are removing a Wylex-type fuse or MCB, buy a blank fuse carrier & fit that in place of the fuse, then a fuse cannot be re-inserted by accident. Better safe than sorry.

Do not put yourself or your loved ones at risk and never fall victim to complacency!
 
MORE SAFETY ADVICE

1) The only safe place for a fuse/mcb which you have removed is in YOUR pocket.

2) Always use signs to indicate the circuit being worked on.

3) Display your contact details. e.g. your mobile number and what area you are working in.

4) If you are wearing glasses with metal frames/arms use a cord so they don't fall off from around your neck.

If working on rotating/moving machinery ensure they will not become entangled if they do slide down your nose.

5) Ensure that all capacitive circuits have been discharged.

6) Every situation is different and must be assessed before commencing work. This list is by no means exhaustive and if you are in doubt.... STOP! Think! then Think again!

You can have endless amounts of thinking BUT you may only get one chance of doing!
 
MODS: WOULD IT MAKE SENSE TO MOVE THIS TO THE TOP OF THIS STICKY?

ELECTRIUM MCB RECALL NOTICE FOR THE ATTENTION OF ALL QUALIFIED ELECTRICIANS:


IN CASE ANY ELECTRICIAN OR CUSTOMER HAS SLIPPED THROUGH THE NET:




RecallAdvertWebII.jpg





6A MCB and 10A MCB codes:


RIRA, RERA, RTRA, RARA, RCRA, SRRA, RHRA, SSRA, RGRA.



16A MCB codes:


RIRA, RERA, RTRA, RARA, RCRA, SRRA, RHRA, RGRA.



Please note, these codes represent the last four characters of the code printed on the side of the MCB.

As far as I know, these codes apply to all Electrium breakers, ie not just the Wylex ones, but Crabtree and Volex too.
 
Further to the posts here about safe isolation and testing, please DO NOT use a volt stick type device (that lights up in close proximity to a live cable, accessory or appliance) or a neon screwdriver to check for the presence of voltage.

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These are not to be relied on for this purpose and the neon screwdriver could, in some circumstances, present a shock risk to the user.

Instead, invest in a suitably-rated multimeter or two pole voltage tester. These devices connect to two points in the circuit (either L-N, L-E or N-E), giving a reliable reading of the voltage present.

The voltage between L-N and L-E should be the same, usually around 230-245V.* The voltage between N-E should be zero or very close to it.

* The voltage can vary but has lower and upper limits, outside of which it should not stray. These limits are currently set to 230V plus 10%, minus 6%, which means the voltage you see between L-N and L-E should be between 216.2V and 253V.

If your voltage reading is consistently outside these parameters, please call your DNO (Distribution Network Operator) on 105 and let them know.
 
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Any tool is dangerous in the wrong hands but is ok to use if the operator understands its purpose and limitations. The respected german manufacturer Wera includes neon screwdrivers in the vde packs and wouldnt do so if they were inherently dangerous.

Blup
 
bernardgreen said:
Good advice that could save a life.



Typing error ? L-N and L-E
Click to expand...
Are you referring to the line; "The voltage between L-N and N-E should be the same, usually around 230-245V.* The voltage between N-E should be zero or very close to it."

Yes, it should be L-N and L-E, not N-E at 230V
 
blup said:
Any tool is dangerous in the wrong hands but is ok to use if the operator understands its purpose and limitations. The respected german manufacturer Wera includes neon screwdrivers in the vde packs and wouldnt do so if they were inherently dangerous.

Blup
Click to expand...
Disagree. They do have the potential to be dangerous. Should not be sold in my humble opinion,
There’s loads of things that are often sold in many countries. Does not make them safe to use or safe to rely upon.
 
ebee said:
Disagree. They do have the potential to be dangerous. Should not be sold in my humble opinion,
There’s loads of things that are often sold in many countries. Does not make them safe to use or safe to rely upon.
Click to expand...
Definitely not an option for a pro electrician who is isolating and testing all day long but fine for the diyer, different standards apply between the professional and the diy approach.

Blup
 
bernardgreen said:
Good advice that could save a life.



Typing error ? L-N and L-E
Click to expand...
conny said:
Are you referring to the line; "The voltage between L-N and N-E should be the same, usually around 230-245V.* The voltage between N-E should be zero or very close to it."

Yes, it should be L-N and L-E, not N-E at 230V
Click to expand...
Yes, apologies for that typo.

I have now edited it out.
 
blup said:
Definitely not an option for a pro electrician who is isolating and testing all day long but fine for the diyer, different standards apply between the professional and the diy approach.
Click to expand...

It is NOT fine

The pro-electrician will ( should ) be aware of those situations where a volt stick will give a false indication,

The DIYer may not be aware of those situations and assume that the indication is correct.

If the false indication shows "No Voltage" then the DIYer is at risk.
 
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