Engineered Oak - what adhesive?

[paceyjg]

Hi all,

Had a nightmare recently, a floor installer messed up his latex screed on my new floor and didn't sand down the ridges he'd made. The LVT looked awful so I've ripped them all up and now plan to glue down an engineered oak flooring instead.

Question is what adhesive to use (there are so many) and do I need to prime?

Water underfloor heating in place, the new build is a liquid concrete screed (fully dry) which has a slightly rough surface due to the latex being ripped up.

The older parts are built up with latex screed the builders put down. All areas have a dpm or moisture barrier applied.

So may adhesives but which one? Or which combination of adhesive and primer?

Really don't want another disaster to happen so appreciate any good advice please?

Best

JG

 

[blup]

My engineered oak floor (kahrs) went over underlay, no gluing.

 

[crazydaze]

Hi all,

Had a nightmare recently, a floor installer messed up his latex screed on my new floor and didn't sand down the ridges he'd made. The LVT looked awful so I've ripped them all up and now plan to glue down an engineered oak flooring instead.

Question is what adhesive to use (there are so many) and do I need to prime?

Water underfloor heating in place, the new build is a liquid concrete screed (fully dry) which has a slightly rough surface due to the latex being ripped up.

The older parts are built up with latex screed the builders put down. All areas have a dpm or moisture barrier applied.

So may adhesives but which one? Or which combination of adhesive and primer?

Really don't want another disaster to happen so appreciate any good advice please?

Best

JG

If you are thinking of glueing Engineered direct to the subfloor, you need to take moisture readings with a Protimeter or preferably a hydrometer and the subfloor needs to per perfectly smooth. The Screed you use to level the floor needs to be suitable for the bonding of Engineered Wood and allow as much expansion as you can around the edge of the floor. Check that if the screed the builder used was a Calcium Sulphate or Anyhydate that it had the latence ground off after it was pumped.

The UFH will need to be off for 24hrs before you can take any moisture readings and there is a process regarding screeding and acclimatising the UFH after the wood has been fitted, the Engineered Wood supplier will have the specs.

You can float Engineered wood over UFH which MAY mean you don't need subfloor prep depending how level you subfloor now is. If you float the floor, make sure you use a Wood Flooring underlay suitable for UFH, something like Duralay Heatflow for Wood Flooring. Again, allow the maximum expansion gap you can around the perimeter, preferably install Engineered before any skirtings are in place.

As for adhesives, Uzin and Mapei are worth a look but again, the Engineered Wood manufacturer will have recommended specs.