Extending existing wood worktop

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Michael Sargeant

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Thinking of extending out my current wood worktops to create a small seating area/breakfast bar with a new length of worktop approx 400W and 800L and a couple of supporting legs.

From the reading I’ve done, the best way is to dry biscuit or dowel for alignment and use bolts underneath to hold.

I just want to check whether there would be possible or if there’s anything I’ve missed.

My woodworking knowledge and experience is pretty limited.

One thing I’m unsure of is how to deal with the current roundover on the section where the 90 degree joint will be.

I realise the current worktop is in poor shape but my plan was to sand everything and refinish once fitted.
 

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You need to route the existing and new worktop exactly as if you had cabinets there.
Plenty of videos on YouTube.
 
johnny2007 said:
You need to route the existing and new worktop exactly as if you had cabinets there.
Plenty of videos on YouTube.
Click to expand...
Sorry, I’m really not sure what you mean. I’ve looked on youtube but can’t really see anything that applies to what I want to do.
 
if you want something easy and not fussy, get the new worktop fixed on legs and join to existing worktop using truss plate or similar.

LEG.jpg
 
opps said:
Wow, video number 2 in your link is a shocking example of how not to do it...
Click to expand...
Didn't look, just posted the search link.
There was a guy who made very good detailed videos, but it disappeared from my favourite list.
 
Michael Sargeant said:
Sorry, I’m really not sure what you mean. I’ve looked on youtube but can’t really see anything that applies to what I want to do.
Click to expand...

I think that @johnny2007 is talking about using a worktop template and a router to make a mason mitre to get around the problem of the rounded profile.

That will work but you still have other hurdles to face given that you cannot remove the existing worktop. The left hand connector bolt will be difficult to fit, but it can be done.

The last time I had to extend a wooden worktop. I used a 35mm hinge hole cutter- as per the video that I maligned above. I then drilled through the end of the existing worktop so that I could disassemble the worktop connector bolt and feed it through the drilled hole. The new section of worktop, I used a router.

The legs that @johnny2007 recommended with help to distribute loads at the join.

You will however need to beg/borrow/steal a template, router bits (including a 4mm biscuit bit) and a decent half inch router. In no way am I casting aspersions on your abilities, but if you have to buy everything that you need, it may be cheaper to employ someone else.
 
opps said:
I think that @johnny2007 is talking about using a worktop template and a router to make a mason mitre to get around the problem of the rounded profile.

That will work but you still have other hurdles to face given that you cannot remove the existing worktop. The left hand connector bolt will be difficult to fit, but it can be done.

The last time I had to extend a wooden worktop. I used a 35mm hinge hole cutter- as per the video that I maligned above. I then drilled through the end of the existing worktop so that I could disassemble the worktop connector bolt and feed it through the drilled hole. The new section of worktop, I used a router.

The legs that @johnny2007 recommended with help to distribute loads at the join.

You will however need to beg/borrow/steal a template, router bits (including a 4mm biscuit bit) and a decent half inch router. In no way am I casting aspersions on your abilities, but if you have to buy everything that you need, it may be cheaper to employ someone else.
Click to expand...
Thanks. That’s really helpful.

Would it be achievable to square the edges of the existing worktop all the way round with a router and then make a simple butt joint with square edge to square edge using dominoes or dowels?

Would you recommend gluing the joint? I’ve seen varying opinions.

Ideally I would like to avoid legs at the join, and only have them at the other end. Would routing a channel on both the new piece and the overhang on the old worktop and then screwing in a plate or flat bar which bridges the gap, eliminate the need for the legs at the join?
 
Michael Sargeant said:
Thanks. That’s really helpful.

Would it be achievable to square the edges of the existing worktop all the way round with a router and then make a simple butt joint with square edge to square edge using dominoes or dowels?

Would you recommend gluing the joint? I’ve seen varying opinions.

Ideally I would like to avoid legs at the join, and only have them at the other end. Would routing a channel on both the new piece and the overhang on the old worktop and then screwing in a plate or flat bar which bridges the gap, eliminate the need for the legs at the join?
Click to expand...

You could use a router to square it, clamping the straight edge might be difficult though.

I guess that routing for a plate may work, but routing from the underside is not something that I would want to do. Could the plate not be surface mounted?

With regards to the biscuits and join, I would say no to the dry join and use silicone to glue the biscuits and edge.

The person that IMO is most qualified to answer your question is @JobAndKnock

I think he may be on a sabbatical though.
 
opps said:
You could use a router to square it, clamping the straight edge might be difficult though.

I guess that routing for a plate may work, but routing from the underside is not something that I would want to do. Could the plate not be surface mounted?

With regards to the biscuits and join, I would say no to the dry join and use silicone to glue the biscuits and edge.

The person that IMO is most qualified to answer your question is @JobAndKnock

I think he may be on a sabbatical though.
Click to expand...
My thinking for routing a square edge was to temporarily attach a square length of timber to the underside with a couple of short finish nails or similar, set it back a couple of mm and use that to support the guide bearing on a flush trim bit.

Sure I guess if it’s on the underside there isn’t much need to make the plate flush.

Thanks for the advice on the glue.

And for your help with the rest of my (probably quite daft) questions.
 
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