Ferroli 701 - Pressure Relief Valve passing?

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bilabonic

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Hi All

I have a Ferroli 701 Optima which leaks water through its CH 3 bar safety pressure relief valve. The water pressure on gauge NEVER goes above 1.2 bar though (with CH on or off). When i do put pressure in the PRV passes and it drop to zero over 10mins.

The Pressure Gauge USED to go over 3 bar a few weeks ago but is as above now?

There are NO leaks on the system.

I have had the filling loop on constantly to keep pressure on, boiler to work.

I then replaced the PRV and it's still the same...

I am now thinking it may be the expansion vessel (i presumed it never had one as it's states optional on the PDF and shows to the side of the boiler/rectangular) BUT i have since found out it is round and at rear at boiler and i can get access to the schrader valve.

I pressed in the centre bit and NO air or water (thank god) came out, this at at 1.2 bar (which as i stated it NEVER goes above?)

It looks like the XV needs to be at around 1 bar/25 psi, the ONLY pump i have though is a bike higher pressure track/floor pump for my racer (160psi).

What should i do next, i did put the pump on XV whilst it was at 1.2 bar and pressure did increase, giving and good indication that the XV balloon is OK.......?

I am thinking of draining a few litres out of the system and then trying to pump to 1 bar but it will be VERY roughly around that mark due to pump..(i'm not paying £35 for a proper one fro vessels!!)

Any advice much welcome.

Cheers
 
Last edited:
you need to drain the boiler and leave a drain point open as you pressurise the vessel. once you start pumping you will see lots of water coming out of the drain point, once this water stops running this is when you start to pressurise the bladder, take it to 1 Bar then close the drain point, repressurise and you are good to go
 
Read the FAQs...you must drop the system pressure to zero and keep it there whilst you check and pump up the vessel.
Once the vessel is up to pressure then set fill the system back up to 1 bar.
If the safety still drips you might get away with opening the valve and flushing it through.

There's every chance the vessel is stuffed though...they should be checked and topped up with air each year otherwise the diaphragm becomes over stretched and easily damaged.
 
ianmcd said:
you need to drain the boiler and leave a drain point open as you pressurise the vessel. once you start pumping you will see lots of water coming out of the drain point, once this water stops running this is when you start to pressurise the bladder, take it to 1 Bar then close the drain point, repressurise and you are good to go
Click to expand...

Gasguru said:
Read the FAQs...you must drop the system pressure to zero and keep it there whilst you check and pump up the vessel.
Once the vessel is up to pressure then set fill the system back up to 1 bar.
If the safety still drips you might get away with opening the valve and flushing it through.

There's every chance the vessel is stuffed though...they should be checked and topped up with air each year otherwise the diaphragm becomes over stretched and easily damaged.
Click to expand...

Yea that makes sense to leave the boiler bleed open, there are no isolations on any of the CH at the boiler though so i will just have to let it drain until nothing more comes out?

The boiler was fitted in 1997 ish and has never had the diaphragm touched/topped up EVER...

It has had new fan, PCB, normal clean, flush system etc...Oh and the new PRV that was not needed!!

I'm draining system from drain point at downstairs rad near rad (boiler is downstairs) so not sure how this will play into it pumping water from the boiler when putting 1 bar into the vessel as there will be water in the system as well involved.

If it is drained down though and it holds 1 bar then surely the diaphragm is OK?

Cheers guys
 
Dont worry about the other rads, the water will hold in a vacuum as long as you dont open any bleed valves, when you pump up the vessel you will only discharge the excess water that is in the EV and shouldnt be there
 
ianmcd said:
Dont worry about the other rads, the water will hold in a vacuum as long as you dont open any bleed valves, when you pump up the vessel you will only discharge the excess water that is in the EV and shouldnt be there
Click to expand...

True...

It's a nightmare for access, about 6" from boiler top to solid concrete, plus the access hole is even smaller, just big enough to lift the main cover off!!
The bottom is even worse as in pic, the drain off valve is just a 15mm end cap!!, was expecting a drain plug or something tbh...

Got nothing to fit onto it i can think of atm, but i should fit something to make it future proof, an isolation valve/drain??

Can i get anything? A

The back door to drain to is literally 5ft away.

I'm stuck with old saucepans for now, going to take a while...

Bloody Ferolli crap, mind you its been lasted a while..Unlike other Ferrolis i have seen with all them 'clips' holding everthing in place, absolute nightmare, F24's etc...


Cheers
 

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This is going to take DAYS at this rate!!!
Filling saucepans, then into a bucket!!

Only can only uncrew the 15mm end cap drain a bit otherwise the pressure makes it squirt everywhere, near the PCB/laminate etc..

What can i fit to it once it's drained in order that i can just connect a hose next time?

I've got a Benzo/solder/flux etc...Was thinking an elbow tap valve with valve and then onto an end feed drain plug or something??

Anyone got any ideas?

Thanks
 

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Well this is going to take FOREVER, i was going to isolate all the rads/towel rail upstairs but thought against it as i want it ALL out, got some inhibitor to put in as well...

NO CH/HW tonight (i might use my leccy skills just to get HW..lol).

I hope to hell the EV is OK or it's boiler out time and if that's the case i might just get one of those new model small Baxi's.....
 
should only drain about 10L have you left the filling loop open by any chance ?
 
ianmcd said:
should only drain about 10L have you left the filling loop open by any chance ?
Click to expand...

No...I stated above all upstairs is draining 4 rads and a towel rad, plus ALL the pipework!!

There is no isolation on the CH flow/return at the boiler it's so old..

I think even the expansion vessel was an 'optional extra' at the time when i fitted it...lol

I have 2 ball valve isolator's PLUS a gate valve on the filling loop, that's how i have been running it, with a 'slight fill' and a 'slight leak', but it's very random.
 
ianmcd said:
How did you manage to change the PRV then ?
Click to expand...

Just undone it and only a little bit of water came out?

That is on the boiler side, so only the boiler drained off..

EDIT -It linked was linked to the air vent and just out the wall, that was a pain as i had to open the hole in wall as new PRV was different size even though correct part.no.

Knowing my luck the air vent is the problem !!
 
bilabonic said:
Just undone it and only a little bit of water came out?

That is on the boiler side, so only the boiler drained off..
Click to expand...
exact same thing, so what exactly are you trying to drain ???? you have fecked up somewhere, not recommended but you have fecked it anyway so just open your new PRV and use that as a drain, hopefully will seal after you have opened it
 
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