Fill up gap between door frame and surface of plasterboard

A

alex889

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One of the sides of my wall is around 10mm off level to my door frame as I built up 3 layers of plasterboard with tecsound in between to lower the noise transfer, as this is a home office. I was thinking about how to fill this gap with a strip of wood, but I need to plain it at an angle and I've no idea how I can best achieve this. maybe there is a DYI friendly tool to assist with that? I was thinking even about using a wood filler, but I guess it would be too much at the top where the difference is 10mm, but maybe at the bottom where there is little difference it would work? I hope the pictures help getting a better idea? Thanks!

https://imgur.com/a/SP29XIm

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foxhole said:

Sometimes door stop is suitable size without making up from timber .
Click to expand...
Thanks for that, my problem is that the plasterboard is at a small angle compared to the door frame, so I need to find a way to trim it at an angle I guess to fit in there
 
alex889 said:
Thanks for that, my problem is that the plasterboard is at a small angle compared to the door frame, so I need to find a way to trim it at an angle I guess to fit in there
Click to expand...
Build out to largest dimension, architrave will hide .
 
Then I'll have the archivate with a gap between it and the plasterboard, but I guess that would be easier to fill with something else?

I just released I have a routing tool, so I'm thinking about cutting the wood strips to length, nail them in place and then use the routing tool zeroed to the plasterboard level and rebate the wood strips to match
 
After I tiled my bathroom years ago, I noticed that the door frame ran out by about 18mm from the top to bottom. Not only did I need to account for the thickness of the tiles, I had to factor in the discrepancy in the door frame. I used my track saw to cut a fillet out of a sheet of MDF.

I assume that you don't have one but if you go to your local timber merchant, they may be to cut a fillet out of timber. I don't know where you are in London. I am in west London, Hansons (nr Southall) will be able to cut one for you.
 
alex889 said:
Then I'll have the archivate with a gap between it and the plasterboard, but I guess that would be easier to fill with something else?

I just released I have a routing tool, so I'm thinking about cutting the wood strips to length, nail them in place and then use the routing tool zeroed to the plasterboard level and rebate the wood strips to match
Click to expand...

If you remove the door stops, that may work but the base of the router means that you will have to chisel away the bits that the router base prevent you from reaching.

Edit--- additionally, unless you use glue or epoxy resin to secure the timber, you wont be able to use a router. If you nail or screw the fillet, the router head will shatter once it hits them.
 
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opps said:
After I tiled my bathroom years ago, I noticed that the door frame ran out by about 18mm from the top to bottom. Not only did I need to account for the thickness of the tiles, I had to factor in the discrepancy in the door frame. I used my track saw to cut a fillet out of a sheet of MDF.

I assume that you don't have one but if you go to your local timber merchant, they may be to cut a fillet out of timber. I don't know where you are in London. I am in west London, Hansons (nr Southall) will be able to cut one for you.
Click to expand...
Did you have to cut in an angle as well or was it 18mm from top to bottom? My main issue is the angle I need to cut it at.

Actually I'm looking to get a plunge saw at the moment, just checking options, may get a Makita SP6000J1. I have a 18mm MDF laying around as well, but that is still way too thick so the wood strips of 12mm are ideal, but then I need to reduce that gradually to 3mm at the end.

I'm based in SE london, I think Selco does this type of service, I need to check.
 
opps said:
If you remove the door stops, that may work but the base of the router means that you will have to chisel away the bits that the router base prevent you from reaching.
Click to expand...
Yes I get what you mean, good point. I guess I can just manually chisel it away. The other side will be using the plasterboard as a guide so it would be okay.
 
alex889 said:
Then I'll have the archivate with a gap between it and the plasterboard, but I guess that would be easier to fill with something else?

I just released I have a routing tool, so I'm thinking about cutting the wood strips to length, nail them in place and then use the routing tool zeroed to the plasterboard level and rebate the wood strips to match
Click to expand...
Just caulk the gap
 
alex889 said:
Did you have to cut in an angle as well or was it 18mm from top to bottom? My main issue is the angle I need to cut it at.

Actually I'm looking to get a plunge saw at the moment, just checking options, may get a Makita SP6000J1. I have a 18mm MDF laying around as well, but that is still way too thick so the wood strips of 12mm are ideal, but then I need to reduce that gradually to 3mm at the end.

I'm based in SE london, I think Selco does this type of service, I need to check.
Click to expand...

When I did my bathroom I decided to make the architrave out of MDF. it was a basic ogee profile. I routed it myself (out of MDF). I used my Festool plunge saw to cut the fillet. So I mdf glued to mdf.

An advantage was that I did not need to touch the existing door lining.

You are considering distorting the door liner to accommodate the architrave, I decided to distort the architrave instead.

It is one of those horses for courses scenarios. You either notice that that the architrave becomes thicker, or you notice that the door frame is pee'd.

I guess that the latter scenario is less obvious but it is a lot more work.
 
alex889 said:
I'm based in SE london, I think Selco does this type of service, I need to check.
Click to expand...

Not sure. I have only seen wall saws at selco. I think Champion timber in Wimbledon can do it but they are SW london.
 
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